Anyone who has grown up in Shillong or has spent a significant part of their life there already knows Bob Dylan’s music by heart. Because, for the last 53 years, Shillong’s very own Blues musician, Lou Majaw, has been celebrating Dylan’s birthday on the streets of Shillong like clockwork.
In short, the people of Shillong have an irrevocable love for all things music, and fashion, with a special place in their bosoms for, of course, Bob Dylan.
Yes, over the years, Shillong’s neighbouring regions, especially Cherrapunji in Sohra and Dawki near the Indo-Bangladesh border, have become tourist hotspots thanks to their popularity on social media platforms. But if you ask me, Shillong city is the real traveller’s dream—dripping in history, laced with unique matrilineal culture and a spice-heavy cuisine, and a tad bit of cherry blossoms sprinkled on top.
Once you’re convinced and set foot in Shillong, it would be criminal not to experience the following:
Visit Shillong Peak (Laitkor Peak)
This is one spot that lets you embrace Shillong, quite literally! If you want to see stunning aerial views of the entire city, Shillong Peak, also known as Laitkor Peak, is the place to be. At 1,965 metres above sea level, it offers sweeping vistas of the mountains of Meghalaya, the pine trees that surround it, and a clear sky in hues of blue, indigo, and shades of tangerine.
Please note that since the peak is located within an Indian Air Force base, photography is prohibited. Also, carry a valid government-issued ID as it is mandatory to produce one at the entrance.
Entry fee: Rs 50 for Indian nationals. Foreign nationals are not allowed to enter for security reasons.
Additional cost: Rs 200 for a private car to cross the army area (available at the entrance)
Head over to Elephant Falls
Only a few kilometres away from the stunning panoramic views of the city lies the Elephant Falls. This 1,017-feet-tall, three-tiered natural waterfall is spectacular in every sense of the term.
Pro tip: Hire a cab from Shillong city and cover both Shillong Peak and Elephant Falls on the same day, as they are located only eight kilometres apart.
Entry fee: Rs 100 for adults and children.
Lose yourself in Laitlum Canyons
This one’s a no-brainer for all nature lovers out there. Just about an hour away from the main city, the Laitlum Canyons are nature’s love ballad to humanity in motion. Think long stretches of lush green rolling hills blending seamlessly into an endless horizon.
Pro tip: For the best views, start early to catch the sunrise over the canyons.
Laze around at the iconic Ward’s Lake
Better known as Nan Polok among locals, this park-cum-lake was built in 1864 by Sir William Ward. Even after all these decades, this lake remains both a tourist attraction and a local favorite. As a teenager, I remember taking day trips to the lake with friends just to see the cherry blossoms in October. I would gaze in awe as goldfish munched on moori (puffed rice) that tourists threw in the water, while swans swam, and flowers swayed to the tune of the fresh breeze.
I recommend visiting right before sunset, watching the sun melt into the lake’s water while paddling away in a paddleboat, or sitting on the lawns and doing nothing.
Entry fee: Rs 20 for adults, Rs 10 for children.
Be one with God at Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians (Dhankheti Church)
This church is a classic example of architectural prowess blending seamlessly with theology. Established on the same ground that once housed Meghalaya’s first-ever church, the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians has tall indigo-painted walls, stained-glass windows in different hues, and life-size chandeliers.
Entry is free, but one must respect the sanctity of the place and not wear short clothes, make noise inside the prayer room, or take pictures inside it.
Explore the Don Bosco Museum to understand the tribal culture
A little ahead of the church is the Don Bosco Museum, which gives you a peek into the rich art, culture, and history of the Khasi, Garo, and Jaintia tribes.
Entry fee: Rs 100 for Indians, Rs 200 for foreign nationals.
Explore the scenic Shillong Golf Course
At 5,200 feet above sea level, Shillong’s golf course is considered among the most scenic in the world. With clean, well-maintained lawns, engulfed on all four sides by towering pines, it’s ideal for those who like being lost in nature without having to leave the city limits.
Entry fee: Free (open till sunset).
Walk the park with pelicans
The Lady Hydari Park was built in 1937 and is now a symbol of peace, tranquility, and regular sightings of ducks and pelicans.
Entry fee: Rs 20 for adults, Rs 10 for children.
Visit Dylan’s Café and Shillong Café to gauge Shillong’s coffeeshop culture
Shillong’s café space is rooted in pop-culture references, and it prides itself on serving local dishes such as momos and chowmein as well as global cuisine. Say, for instance, Dylan’s Café. As the name suggests, this entire cafe is dedicated to Bob Dylan. Top that with live music, and Dylan’s Cafe becomes an unmissable spot.
Shillong Café, on the other hand, is quaint and classy. They set the mood with live music, serve the local favorites, along with cuisines from neighboring states, such as thukpa, and Shillong’s very own version of gigantic momos.
Try out the Kongs’ kitchen
There’s no way you can experience Shillong without digging into its local main-course dishes. Try one of the Kong’s (term of respect used to address women) food joints, either in Laitumkhrah or Police Bazaar. For all the non-vegetarian travellers out there, gorge on a piping hot plate of Jadoh, Dohkhlieh, and Tungtap. Vegetarians can opt for simple thalis or go to places like Madras Cafe and Jiva Veg Restaurant for elaborate veg meals.
You have to have Chinese in Shillong
Shillong’s Chinese food stays true to its source material, and while you still find “Indian Chinese” in Police Bazaar, it’s a more authentic version that dominates the restaurants.
When I am away from Shillong, on most nights, I visualise myself hogging away some delicious Kung Pao Chickens and Biang Biang Noodles at my favourite eateries, such as Deja Vu and Hong Kong Restaurant.
Just go
Whether you like Shillong’s music scene—which is at its finest during NH7 Weekender and the Cherry Blossom Festival—or you want to seek solace in its quaintness, or you’re plain curious as to what makes Shillong Ed Sheeran’s favourite Indian city, it embraces one and all. Go, the city is already waiting with open arms. Khublei!
