As a Parsi, almost everyone I meet asks about lagan-nu-custard, and its ominous presence at weddings and other festivals. However, I must confess, it’s not my favourite Parsi dessert out there [cue the gasps]. While I appreciate the silky, custard-y flavour, when I think of Parsi desserts, it’s not the first one in my mind. When I sat down to start writing this, I came up with a list of all the desserts I could think of, everything I have eaten at Navroz tables, at friends’ parties, and even at funerals. When I ran the list past my non-Parsi friends and colleagues, I was surprised to hear that they didn’t actually know any! So without further ado, it gives me great pleasure to introduce you to some of my favourite, unknown, Parsi desserts.
Kummas Cake – This was introduced to me just last year, during the Gathas, or the last ten days of the Parsi calendar in August. It is a time for introspection, and to honour the departed. During this time, fire temples across the city distribute fruits and sweets that have been blessed during the prayers. One of these is Kummas cake, a dense, semolina cake fortified with almonds. The nutty and warm aroma and taste of the cake is rooted in Persian tradition, and eating it feels like an almost grounding ritual.
Malido – Similar to the Kummas, Malido is also distributed by the fire temples after prayers, though this one is more commonly available, and throughout the year too. It is almost halwa-like, made with fried wheat and ghee. Crumbly, rich, and incredibly sweet, this one is an absolute treat. Sometimes it has a deep, marmalade colour due to the addition of saffron – try and get your hands on this one if you can.
Chaapat – Basically the Parsi answer to the French crêpe, it is the perfect amalgamation of a dessert and a snack. Subtly sweet, with nuts folded through a velvety pancake batter. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, best to have this with a nice hot cup of chai or coffee at teatime.
Bhakras – Supplement your Parsi tea party with bhakras – a cross between a biscuit and a doughnut, these are crusty on the outside and soft and crumbly on the inside. Bhakra dough used to be fermented with toddy, giving it that umami sour flavour. But substituting it with yoghurt gives mostly the same result. Sometimes spiced lightly with cardamom and nutmeg, these are best eaten straight out of the fryer, the browner the better.
Doodh nu Puff – This one isn’t for us lactose-intolerant. A winter special, especially when the community leaves for Lonavala, Khandala, Mahabaleshwar, Udvada, or any other hill station in mass droves, it is a quirky little treat. Ordered the night before in advance for breakfast, boiled, sweetened milk is left outside in the cold air to chill (or, put in the fridge if you live in the blasting heat). Then in the morning, the milk is hand-whipped until it froths. The froth is then transferred to a tall glass, and the process continues until the glass is full up, and then eaten with a spoon. Truly a quirky labour of love.
Kopra Pak – This one is common in both Parsi and Gujarati communities, a coconut fudge or barfi that has a unique jaggery-forward flavour. The taste changes with the use of fresh versus desiccated coconut, and then for a Parsi-touch, a little red food colouring is added to make it rose pink.
Sev and Dahi – Potentially the most popular of the unpopular, the Sagan-ni-sev is ghee-fried strands of vermicelli, served warm with cold, sweet dahi for any and all auspicious occasions. Topped with almonds and raisins that have been fried in ghee, it is indulgent, luscious, and a staple at any Parsi home. The smell of the vermicelli frying in ghee or butter is almost sinful – if you try any dish on this list, let it be this one – quintessential and homely.
