The search algorithms see the same question popping up around this time of the year — Is there a difference between Diwali and Deepavali? The answer is both yes and no. Deepavali, the term used in South India for the festival, originates from Sanskrit Dipa-vali (row of lights). Diwali is a variation of the word and is typically used in North India.
The difference lies in what the festivities are associated with in different parts of the country. In the North, it is the return of Lord Rama to Ayodhya after a 14-year exile. In the East, it is a celebration of Goddess Kali’s triumph over the demon Mahishasura, and in the South, it is the victory of Lord Krishna (and Satyabhama) over Narakasura. Other associations occur throughout the days of celebration. The underlying theme that runs through all is a celebration of good over evil.
In the five Southern states, Deepavali is celebrated with a range of customs and traditions, many of which are specific to individual communities and even households. As always, food anchors the festivities.
While Hemamalini Maiya, Managing Partner, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, did not witness it herself, she recalls being told of a tradition in her village in South Kanara where people would keep akki rotti (rice rotti) sprinkled with turmeric water in the fields. A cloth-covered log would be dipped in oil, and farmers would call out ‘Balindra, balindra, battha kottu, bali thogo’ (Balindra, give us grain and take the sacrifice), before it was lit.
She speaks of her Deepavali celebrations, describing it as a harvest festival. “For us, the first day (Naraka Chaturdashi) and the third day (Bali Padyami) are celebrated. It was also called ‘neeru thumbo dina’ (translates to a day of filling water in Kannada — ritual oil bath), following which we would burst crackers early in the morning. We would get Atharasa or Kajjaya (a deep-fried sweet disc made of pounded rice, jaggery, crushed cardamom, and pepper) from our village in South Kanara. Kaju Katli and Besan laddoos were always received and given as gifts. Once MTR began its sweets division, we had dry fruit sweets made and distributed to family and friends,” explains Hemamalini.
The early morning crackers were a part of Food Historian and MasterChef India (Tamil) judge Rakesh Raghunathan’s memories, too. “You hear crackers as early as 4 AM, because the beheading of Narakasura was at dawn. His death, while a triumph of good, is also like a cosmic reset that happens when the sun’s first rays appear,” Rakesh explains.
In his home, a family elder would wake the younger ones up and seat them outside the puja room. “They would apply a mixture of chunambu (slaked lime) and turmeric to our feet in a pattern (this application is called nalangu) and pour a touch of gingelly oil on our heads. We were then given some badam halwa. We were also given the Deepavali marundhu (a halwa of herbs and pepper, long pepper, dried ginger, carom and cumin seeds, etc., cooked with jaggery and ghee) — to aid with digestion, because back in the day, it was the one festival where the system was overloaded with homemade sweets and savouries”, he adds.
“In my household, a traditional Deepavali breakfast will have Badam Halwa. There will also be Ven Pongal (a mash of lentils and rice), Idli-Sambar and chutneys, and Vellai Appam (deep-fried fermented, savoury snack). It is soaked in oil and has to be popped into your mouth in one go. The explosion of flavours is an experience!” Rakesh tells us.
“Deepavali breakfasts also differ according to your ancestral roots. If you’re from Thanjavur, you will have a variation of Vellai Appam served, and in Srivilliputhur, a sweet called Okkorai (lentils, jaggery, ghee, coconut, and cashew nuts) is served. There are also the usual suspects of Badam Halwa, Mysore Pak, Kai Murukku (handmade murukku), and Thenkuzhal (savoury snack),” he says, adding that if there is no religious significance on the day (not Amasvaya, for example), meat is also served in some communities for Deepavali.
Deepthi Tanikella is the Founder and storyteller of Pinch of South, a platform that documents South Indian culinary traditions. Her immediate family comes from all the Southern states of India, and Deepavali celebrations hold a special significance for each.
“A day before is when we celebrate Naraka Chaturdasi. Deepavali day is our ode to Goddess Lakshmi, and we light the Ashtalakshmi lamp and pray to her for prosperity. The day after is Bali Padyami, where we celebrate Mahabali. I followed this at my parents’ home, and continue to do so. Abhyanga Snanam (ritual oil bath) is a must for us. Then we eat Lehyam, similar to the Marundhu (made in a tradition passed down by Deepthi’s Palakkad Malayali great-grandmother), to ensure good digestion. We then start the day by eating copious amounts of Pheni with milk and badam pieces. Without it, Deepavali is incomplete. We then burst one small cracker to ward off any evil”, explains Deepthi of her Deepavali traditions.
Among her favourite things to make is the Telugu Kajikayalu (deep-fried stuffed pastry). The stuffing is made with semolina or khoya, and the whole family sits down to help with the preparation, including making rava laddus to distribute. Also made is the Panchadara Chilakalu (Telugu; meaning sugar parrots — a mould-shaped, coloured, sugar dough sweet), offered to Goddess Lakshmi, who is said to be fond of sweets.
“I remember ammama mixing beetroot, turmeric, and also saffron to get the natural colours,” recalls Deepthi, adding that Ariselu (rice flour and jaggery sweet), and soft Chekodilu (a savoury deep-fried ring of rice flour and spices, usually crisp), like they make at her home, dipped in pickle, are must-haves during Deepavali.
Deepavali sweets and savouries are plenty across the Southern states. In Kerala, Ada Pradhaman and Neiyappam are usually made. Various communities in the state that celebrate the festival create a range of special dishes. The Goud Saraswat community, for example, makes Godda Phov (jaggery-sweetened beaten rice), Jambul (semolina sweet), Saat (deep-fried, flaky, sugar-coated pastry), Godda Rontos (sweet puris), and other delicacies. Popular Karnataka sweets also include the Dharwad Peda, Obbattu or Holige, and Kardant (a mix of dry fruits, jaggery, and edible gum).
These festive dishes can be time-consuming to prepare, and as a result, several stores have become reliable sources over the years. Deepthi recommends Pheni from G. Pulla Reddy Sweets, as well as savoury snacks and sweets from Swagruha in Vijayawada, Emerald Mithai in Secunderabad, and the 120-year-old Balaji Ratanlala Solapurwala Sweet House in Hyderabad.
In Bengaluru, one can look through the offerings at Sri Venkateshwara Sweetmeat Stall, Shree Mahalakshmi Sweets, Santhanam Sweets and Savouries, Sri Krishna Sweets, and several smaller outlets in the Chickpet Market area. In Chennai, Mylapore Ganapathy’s, The Grand Sweets and Snacks, Subham Ganesan, and Sri Krishna Sweets are the go-to.
Deepavali in the Southern states echoes the same sentiments as the rest of the country — a time to be with family and friends, and to hope for good things to come, albeit with a touch of celebratory culinary overindulgence.
