Mountain cuisines often suffer from a fragmented identity, despite the unique heritage they carry. From Sikkim to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, and across Nepal and Bhutan, ingredients and flavours shift with each peak. Yet, what remains constant is the love for indigenous ingredients and ancient recipes passed down through generations. In an open-format setting, Across brings a modern twist to Himalayan cuisine, right in the artsy lanes of Kala Ghoda, Mumbai.
Chef-owned concepts are common, but it’s rare for two culinary minds to unite and elevate a growing cuisine. Chef Viraf Patel, renowned for his expertise in European cuisine and ventures like Café Zoe, joins forces with his wife, Prakriti Lama Patel, a Nepal-born expert in Himalayan food heritage. Prakriti’s deep knowledge of mountain ingredients pairs perfectly with Viraf’s trend-spotting approach. Together with partners Anand Mittal and Neeraj Patodia, their hospitality group, Fire Bred Hospitality Pvt. Ltd., reimagines traditional recipes in the former Gateway Taproom, creating a unique space to showcase their concept.
There are no cliché wooden cabin vibes or exposed filament bulbs here. Instead, a café-style façade leads into a clean, open space with warm, soft lighting and light-green seating. Teak wood chairs and dotted-pattern flooring add a homely touch, while white railway tiles lead to a brightly lit bar, showcasing colourful bottles. Local artisan pieces from Prakriti’s hometown in Nepal decorate the walls, evoking mountain connections. In this cozy 40-seater, expect community chatter—unless, of course, you’re too busy enjoying the dishes emerging from the modest kitchen.
Across is all about elevating homestyle, generational recipes to their most refined form. Chef Viraf has an uncanny ability to understand his diners’ palates, with a vision to make Himalayan cuisine more accessible, while also building a platform to educate those unfamiliar with it. Staying true to the growing trend of sustainability, the menu at Across will constantly evolve, shaped by what’s in season and what ingredients arrive. With regular shipments of produce from across the Himalayas like Salyan, Solukhumbu, Paro, Dharan and Mustang there will always be something new to taste.
The dishes at Across reflect the rich heritage from the chefs’ homes and travels. Himalayan cuisine is earthy, rich, meat-heavy, and fuelled by lentils and millet. The menu begins with these ingredients, creatively utilised thanks to Viraf’s global expertise. “We don’t want to disrespect anyone’s cuisine since we are so diversified, and have decided to stay true to its core,” says Viraf. He reimagines buffalo meat, often used in street food, as a spicy Buff Choila, smoked with hay and served with spring onions and red rice flakes. A duck version and Pork or Buff Shyapta, with Chinese seasoning influences, are also on the menu.
Prakriti’s childhood recipes feature heavily, along with rare offal dishes like pork trotters and ham, which are actually spicier back home “We tone it down by 80% for Mumbai’s humid climate,” she explains. Other highlights include Stinging Nettles in corn soup with crispy corn & Himalayan wild chives, and foods cooked in pure ghee, such as Timur Potato and spindle-shaped buckwheat fries, served with charred tomato chutney. Tibetan-style ‘Fry Bread’ with Kalimpong cheese, scotch-bonnet honey, and lacy steamed bun Tingmo with chili butter pair well with most mains and the 8-hour braised mutton in cumin gravy and ghee-infused rice is a must-have.
Apart from the small plate options, Vegetarians can also enjoy sharing dishes like the Festive 9 Bean Stew paired with a spicy turnip relish and a Solukhumbu White Bean Hummus, using special beans which come from a region 7900 ft. above sea level, while pescatarians may enjoy Himalayan Trout with sautéed greens. The menu also features indigenous produce from local ‘Himalayan’ businesses like Nuniya Rice from Taru Nationals, along with honey sourced from Bhuira Jams, which supports marginalised farmers. The famed Bhutanese dish, Ema Datsi, made from chili peppers and cheese served with Red rice, also appears alongside mushroom thukpa with hand-cut noodles.
Prakriti’s childhood favourite Chimphing will be sourced from Sikkim and Chayote Root, a winter delicacy, may appear in February. The team also plans to smoke and dehydrate their own meats in-house, following a mountain tradition.
Much like the food menu, the bar draws on ingredients from the Himalayan region. The unique, often hard-to-source elements mean the signature cocktails are constantly evolving. Curated by both Viraf and Prakriti, the drinks reflect the same creative flair as the food. Try the Altitude Mary—Rokum Valley Timur pepper-infused vodka, combined with tomato, celery, salt, and green chilli—or the Estate Manager’s Evening Tea, a smoky bourbon-spiced tea concoction served with a slice of salty Kanchan cheese. Subtle infusions also make their way into the bar menu, from a hog plum shrub in a spritzer-style drink to the abundant use of Himalayan gin from Hapusa.
Chef Prakriti explained that momos aren’t on the regular menu, but a special off-menu chicken momo is available daily at 8:30 and 10:30 PM, while supplies last. A vegetarian chayote and cheese momo will debut in late November, once fresh chayote arrives. Grab them with your drink—if you’re lucky enough to catch them hot!
5, Hari Chambers, 58/64 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort, Mumbai – 400001
https://maps.app.goo.gl/S69XHe35A3mt4JGC7
Call: +91 7506128945
Follow: @across.bombay
Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born lifestyle and luxury writer who strives to seek the exploratory moods of life through his nonchalant mind. He can be found on Instagram @nonchalantgourmand
