The advent of the holiday season has every street in Bandra, the hub of Christmas celebrations, dressed up in fairy lights. And if you seek to sprinkle some holiday magic on your eggnog, experiencing Convent Road; a street laden with the Christmas spirit like no other, should be a must-visit on your list. The charming decorations on the street are transportive, enchanting the old and young alike. The off-white lanterns on the trees across the street are like swollen fireflies, watching over merry revellers having a night out they’ll never forget.
For the uninitiated, Convent Road is a street in Bandra, lined with old Catholic houses that erupts into a vibrant festival on the roads, come Christmas time. Think beautifully lit-up bungalows, huge speakers playing carols, pretty lights on the trees outside, and a crib for everyone to feast their eyes on. It’s where Catholic families from the neighbourhood come together to bask in the holiday spirit with long strolls on the roads, clicking pictures, and wishing each other.
“We’ve been putting up the lights since the late 1980s,” says Errol De Souza, a Convent Road resident, who’s one of the key people behind Convent Road’s annual “Carols on Road” event. “But, the carols on the road started around 8 years ago. It used to happen on St. Anthony Road before, but they asked us to take over the baton as their road was smaller. At first, we weren’t so sure about it, but finally, everyone convinced us. So, we decided to do it big,” he adds further. The maximalism is mesmerizing and elegantly done. He also shares with pride, how they were the first street in Bandra to put up lights throughout the street, long before everyone else started hopping on the trend. “Our lights aren’t the usual yellow ones, but slightly off-white in colour, which look prettier,” he says cheekily, aware of their effect on people who’ve stumbled on the road accidentally.
The lights are put up over a week before Christmas, and stay on till the 2nd of January, along with the speakers playing carols every night until 10pm. But, the best part is the night when everyone gathers for the Carols on Road celebration on the road. “It’s an absolutely free show we organize with some of the best musicians and singers in Bombay. They’re mostly people from the community who’ve grown up in the neighbourhood but are now singing at gigs across Mumbai, and even playing at a global stage. We invite about hundred odd underprivileged orphan kids and senior citizens, who get the front row seats to artists crooning carols, along with a free meal,” says Eroll. His wife Maria chips in by adding a very essential detail saying, “And the artists don’t charge even a penny for it.” Doing it gratis is the core of their celebration, which is nurtured and protected by not indulging in the ritual of “passing the hat around.”
A much-awaited event, people start enquiring about it weeks in advance to plan their night out. And for the unplanned visitors who happen to pass by, the free-flowing feeling of fellowship contained within the lane is enough to sneak a peek. As you enter the Convent road, quintessential Christmas hits land on your ears even before you cruise through the crowd and discover the stage. It is lit with the neighbourhood rock stars like Rozzlin, Marianne, Dr Brian Tellis, Dr Victor, Neale Murray and more, all dressed up in festive finery, electrifying the crowd with their energy.
People of all ages, with preference given to seniors, sit on chairs, merrily swinging to carols, while others stand on the road, tapping their feet, minding small kids, holding their dogs in their arms, and greeting old friends with genuine affection. The entire road is thick with the air of celebration and the scent of delicious food.
The food at the event isn’t catered by fancy names, but from neighbourhood families who simply wish to be a part of the festivities. “We don’t charge them a fee, and all they need to get is their table and chair to set it up,” says Errol. “Keith’s burgers are to die for,” says Venetia Shenoy, a regular at this event while standing in the long queue for the burgers. She waits for them every year as it’s the only time the Wallace family puts up the stall. The secret of their delicious burgers (buff and chicken) is their homemade barbeque sauce, created by Karl, Keith’s late brother. “It has leeks, garlic, and coffee among other ingredients”, says Runa, Keith’s wife, while slathering the burger buns with mayonnaise like a pro. Priced at rupees 300 each, they know what they’ve created.
At another stall, the Das family offers a 3-course meal starting with snacks like Chicken Mayo Sandwiches, main courses like Fried Rice with Buff Chilli Fry, Hakka Noodles, and desserts like Chocolate-covered Strawberries and Oreo Fudge. Their House Lemonade has everyone taking seconds, including us! “It’s our first time doing this. Earlier we only used to attend the event, as we used to stay far,” says Preeti with a smile. There’s also delicious vegetarian fare like Paneer Pakoda, sev batata puri, and more. But the Catholic Christmas specials are what the locals look forward to the most. “There are Fugias, Sorpotel, Chorizo Poi, Potato Chops, Croquettes, Cutlets, and Sausage Rolls”, says Maria, not forgetting to add the star of the evening – the rum-soaked Christmas Cake. The foodie in you will rejoice at the spread, so bringing a good appetite is a must.
An inclusive space, the crowd, while retaining its Catholic core is growing to include those not from the community. It’s not about religion, but more about the spirit of celebration, fun, and giving that attracts everyone alike. “I came here because I got to know about it through some friends of mine. I love the fact that people here actually know each other, their kids have grown up together, and while I’m just witnessing it as an outsider, the vibe still travels”, says Meghna, a first-timer who travelled all the way from Andheri to attend it this year.
For Bharati Chainani, a 65-year-old Bandra-born Sindhi woman, the festival has a deeper significance. “I’ve grown up here all my life and know the taste of old Bandra, which sadly is fading away. Coming here keeps me connected to the old Bandra I grew up in. I take walks here, click pictures, and meet old friends. It’s a joy to see how every generation participates in it.” For another first-timer attendee Jovan, it’s the decor that makes the place so special, he shares with gleaming eyes. Some are meeting friends, some catching up with their next-door neighbours, and some experiencing this solo, and yet feeling connected to it all. This fuzzy feeling is what gives them all a fillip for the new year.
To create something so warm and fuzzy as this, there have to be people behind it who carry this spirit in their hearts. “We made a committee of people, all from the road to make this happen”, says Errol with a twinkle in his eyes. All retired or semi-retired folks, they’ve found their calling in bringing people joy and happiness through this. While Errol is the main pointman on this, there are others among whom the tasks are equally divided. “I’m in charge of getting the artists and managing the stage”, he informs, “along with two Blossoms, one Kairos, and one Coutinho” bubbling with glee. “Gene gets the kids and volunteers, while Maria, my wife, takes care of me” he says in jest. There are others like Ivan Mendonca, Leoba Alpha, Allison (who does the styling of artists), and Helen Wallace, who creates beautiful artwork for the stage. There’s also Clarabelle Saldanha – famous for her Christmas decor and legendary after parties, who makes soup and sandwiches for the seniors. Everyone chips in to make this a success every year.
While working seriously, and tirelessly, like Santa’s elves, they’re a “jolly bunch” too who love having their share of fun. As the celebrations on the road come to an end, they carry the party indoors at the “after party” where amidst heaping plates of biryanis, glasses of booze, and musical notes floating through Pianos, they share stories, moments of laughter, and the spirit of Christmas, all over again.
So, if you happen to be on Convent Road on Christmas, take a peek inside the homes, and perhaps you’ll catch a shadow of those who made it all happen.
