I’ve been to countless restaurants and bars across Delhi and the NCR. Lately, my friends have started joking that I’ve become a bit of a snobby food connoisseur. But what can I say? Such is the nature of my job.
As food critics and writers, we’re often expected to focus on the smallest details: the garnish, the thickness of a sauce, even the ambience. Just last week, a colleague of mine was all set to head out for a review, only to get a call from the restaurant-bar asking to reschedule. The reason? “The tiling is off.”
Her immediate reaction? “I mean… c’mon guys, I’m not here to grade the flooring!”
In my year as a food writer, I’ve seen countless reviews rescheduled—not because the sous chef was away or the signature dish was missing an ingredient—but because the aesthetics of the place didn’t match some imagined standard. All that effort and creativity in the menu, carefully presented in press notes and Instagram posts, could be overlooked if the décor wasn’t “perfect.”
I was often asked, “Soph, what in your opinion makes a good bar or restaurant?”
“My dear,” I’d reply, “it’s a mix of things—flavours, presentation, the precision in how tastes and textures come together… and of course, the ambience. The detailing matters.”
But it wasn’t until last weekend that I had a little epiphany and thought to myself, what a fool! Does nobody think about comfort? I’m talking about seating. The kind that actually lets you relax, not just Instagram your cocktail against a marble countertop.
As I write this, I’m seated in one of Basant Lok’s OG “grill and burger” joints. My back sinks into a deep brownish-red plush sofa, and my device rests perfectly on a wooden table—neither too high nor too low, just right.
As critics, do we sometimes overlook the most basic needs while on duty? What’s the point of perfect garnishing and meticulous sprinkles if my back and bottom aren’t properly rested? Comfort, it seems, might just be the most underrated aspect while reviewing bars and restaurants.
My boss—SS, as we call her—was always the first to know about new places, bars, and openings. She’s been in this business for years. The first time she handed me one of her pieces, she came up to me and said something nobody had ever mentioned before:
“You know, Sophin, martinis are great and all, but I think the chairs were really uncomfortable. Do you think that’s something worth including in a review?” And in that instant, I knew—yes! It absolutely is.
To think of chairs, of comfort—excuse me! That was something we had never truly paid attention to.
One of Delhi’s renowned spots—much loved by the crowd and served great coffee. But their seating? We’d rather not comment.
“I can’t take my dad there because the seating is so uncomfortable”, shared T.
Make Yourself At Home
Restaurants are built around the idea of making people linger — over another drink, another course, another conversation. Yet somewhere along the way, comfort became an afterthought. We celebrate dramatic interiors, statement furniture, and design-led spaces, but rarely ask the simplest question: Can I actually relax here? Because hospitality is not just about what is served on the plate; it is also about how a space makes you feel while you’re enjoying it.
Perhaps the next evolution of restaurant reviews shouldn’t just ask whether the food was exceptional or whether the interiors were beautiful. Perhaps we should also ask: Did I want to stay? Did I feel welcome? Did my body feel as comfortable as my taste buds did?
