I climb a short flight of wooden stairs, each step sending a hollow knock through the bones of this century-old neoclassical building in Fort. Steadying myself, I think of the evening ahead—twenty courses, an odyssey, I wonder how long the unfolding will take. What I don’t know yet is that the night will spin into a circus of flavours and textures. A menu laid out like a single-file procession, punctuated with food emoticons and a Harry Potter reference is about to leave me half-wondering if I’ll be chasing after my supper.
The team at Ekaa is set to orchestrate your evening’s pleasure—they are keepers of a philosophy, mainly to bring chaos to ingredients. At the helm is Chef Niyati Rao, whose career is defined by a lifelong pull towards the alchemy of food. Alongside her, Sagar Neve, her partner in both vision and execution, shares her hunger for pushing past what is expected. “Ekaa has never been about a single cuisine or idea—it’s about capturing inspiration from everywhere, without borders,” Niyati says. Her journey—from childhood afternoons spent watching her mother cook to stints at The Zodiac Grill, Wasabi by Morimoto, and the transformative kitchens of Noma—has culminated in a space that refuses definition.
Ekaa’s design immediately spews minimalism, inspired by the ‘less is more’ ethos of Japanese and Nordic architecture. Its simplicity is absorbed in details, from the ceramics to the wall installations. Housed in the 131-year-old Kitab Mahal in Fort, the founders preserved the building’s architectural nuances while layering in earthy tones, handmade wooden furniture, and artisan-crafted lamps. My seat directly faces the brightly lit, buzzy, interactive kitchen—one can pop in between courses to converse with chefs, encouraging connection.
Ekaa was never meant to fit into a box. Awards came, yes, but what’s set in cement is its ingredient-forward philosophy where seasons, cultures, and memory dictate the plate. With three experiential menus—including a Chef’s Tasting Menu layered with nostalgia, is their sixth iteration called ‘Awakening’—alongside an à la carte and a tapas selection. Along with an engaging bar, inspired by Indian ecosystems and rare forages, it steeps you in scents of exploration.
The Awakening 6.0 is a curious thing—one word per course, speckled with unnamed odd emoticons. The menu is an invitation into a labyrinth of global influences stitched together uniquely, in sensory awe. You find yourself conjuring an image of each dish—expecting one thing, only to have what arrives on your plate, turn everything you imagined upside down.
Across twenty courses, the menu skewers fermentation, umami, and the art of layering textures. What’s remarkable, though, is the pacing—each course arrives with precision, and in a mere three hours, you’re led through an elegantly timed journey of courses that doesn’t overload your stomach. Vegetarians, too, are in for a treat, as the ingredients—sourced from the far-flung corners of India—are transformed with a technique-driven character. The meal begins with an Achappam, stuffed with purple yam puree and lacquered in a rich okonomiyaki glaze; a pumpkin and carrot dish that showcases fermentation at its finest; and buff tartare, milk powder-cured, paired with a crispy koji waffle. Yes, please.
Japanese influences are interwoven throughout the menu—koji, miso, ponzu, and ramen all subtly emerge. Monaka, a rice wafer stuffed with spicy seafood, made in-house, evokes nostalgia in the form of a Pikwik biscuit. India’s rich contribution is in the form of kewra, gulkand, kasundi, and the local marvel, Tomme de Bombay cheese. The almond soup, reminiscent of a comforting shorba, is given a kewra foam halo. The Aguachile, made with Narba (Bigeye Trevally from Maharashtra, a true godsend for those who shy away from the usual overly fishy raw bites), is balanced with a rare vegetarian twist—a fluffy coconut sprout. You’ll find lacto-fermentation, koji curing, pickling, and infusions creating earthy, smoky, and umami-laden notes.
A delicious thread runs through the rest, crispy and creamy textures (e.g. cashew flatbread with sambal or the mille-feuille with bourbon butterscotch), and a consistent focus on sensory engagement—diners are encouraged to eat with their hands, spray citrus scents, or sip warm broths alongside cold custards. A Harry Potter-inspired Butterbeer, as if enchanted by the spell Geminio, multiplies into a mille-feuille delight, while the pandan toast, reimagined as a stuffed homemade wafer, weaves a tale of cultural cross-pollination.
Before you start the 20-course extravagance, grab a drink. Following the ingredient template, the bar menu is a journey through India’s botanical landscape. The aromas are defined by ancient jadi-booti of yore, steeping in neutral alcohol—the libations are a sharp breath of modernity. Made with elixirs created in-house with wormwood, kapur kachri, and jatamansi, foraged from the Himalayas, the Ghats, and beyond, it seeks to showcase centuries-old traditions. Each drink is named after a root or spice—Tequila meets khus root in a smoky cocktail, Gin embraces mountain pepper in an intense drink, and Whiskey mingles with the sacred triphala—each of them is designed to transport the drinker to the very soul of India.
The juxtaposition of ingredients in their most unexpected forms defines this menu. It’s a melange of daring surprises, each course leaving more to the imagination than it reveals. What does ‘iceberg’ conjure for you? A leafy green perhaps? Does ‘Donburi’ transport you to a bowl brimming with richness. This menu is an exercise in sensory overload—trust your instincts, and dive in at your own risk.
A decorated restaurant, a lauded chef—yes, of course. But the proof is here, in this elaborate menu, a South Mumbai coursed showdown that will make you rethink everything you knew about pushing the boundaries of ingredients.
Address:
First Floor Kitab Mahal, Fort, Mumbai 400001
Call: +91 9987657989
Follow: @ekaa.mumbai
