About eleven years ago, when I moved to Kochi, I absolutely enjoyed the pace of life– the non-existent traffic jams, more greenery around, and best of all, I was breathing reasonably better quality air! The foodie in me, however, wasn’t impressed. Having lived in Mumbai all my life, I was spoiled for choice– be it the Rs 5 vadapav (gone are the days!) to the misal pavs and pav bhajis and gourmet spots like Hakkasan or Suzette, good food was always a rickshaw or train ride away. Over the years, I’ve discovered several excellent food joints in Kochi and realised that it can be a foodie’s paradise, too.
The Malayalee in me simply cannot resist dosa. One of the first places I headed to was Pai Brothers Fast Food or Pai Dosa Kada, an eatery known to serve different varieties of dosa. The simple space serves dosas paired with different kinds of eggs, with podi (gunpowder), cheese, chutney, and a selection of fillings. My personal favourites are the quail egg dosa and the thattil kutti dosa or small thick dosas with garlic chutney. Pai’s is open past as well.
When you crave a soul-satisfying traditional Kerala breakfast, head to Aavi in Panampilly Nagar, where mornings begin with comforting classics like puttu, appams, and flaky porottas, all served with rich curries—think spicy egg roast, beef curry, or creamy chicken stew. Don’t miss the soft string hoppers and delicate pathiris that round out the meal.
If a traditional oonu (thali) is what you’re after, head to Karthiyayini at Athani or Maradu. While Oonu is often confused with a sadya, the Oonu contains rice with 5 or 6 sides, as opposed to a sadya, which consists of 20 or more dishes. Served on a banana leaf, this meal is also served with a side of a meat dish or fish dish– depending on your preference. I opted for delicious kanthari squid and fried tiger prawns. The fiery kanthari squid found its perfect match in the mellow richness of coconut milk, while the tiger prawns, infused with traditional spices like perumjeerakam, cinnamon, pepper, and coriander powder, were an absolute flavour bomb.
One of the best pothichoru is served at Machali at Kaloor. Pothichoru is a medley of flavours, since the rice and all the sides are wrapped together in a banana leaf– the wrapping is opened at the table. The fish pothichoru and the fried fish that I tried were perfect– crispy on the outside and flaky on the inside. The other sides included a tangy sambar, beetroot thoran (beetroot tempered with mustard seeds and coconut), and aviyal (mixed vegetables cooked in a mixture of curd and coconut).
Having been a Portuguese and a Dutch colony, the city has created its own unique cuisine. The Islamic community too, has had an influence on its palette, with influences mainly being Arabain. Apart from the many popular cafes like Kashi Art Cafe & Gallery that line Fort Kochi and modern cake shops like French Toast India popular amongst tourist and locals alike, several bakeries serve delectable puffs (layered puff pastry with meat, egg or vegetarian fillings) and other kadis (snacks) like pazhampori (banana fritters), ulli vada (onion fritters), and chicken, beef or vegetable cutlets.
One of the best places to savour these would be Quality Bakers. The bakery has quite a few outlets all over the city. If a sit-down experience is what you’re looking for, head to Zera Noya, a Dutch bakery run by Sarah Lisa, who’s from the Netherlands and has made Kochi her home. At Zera Noya, you can bite into traditional Dutch delicacies like slofs, cinnamon braids, and more.
A visit to Kerala is never really complete without a visit to a toddy shop. Drinking toddy, made from sap from coconut trees, is part of the state’s cultural fabric. The food served at toddy shops tends to be really delicious and,` more often than not, quite spicy.
Once unfairly portrayed as sketchy dens in pop culture, toddy shops are now seeing a revival—thanks to a surge in culinary curiosity. The setting is modest, with men in lungis and women in sarees or salwars managing tables with warmth. It’s not café-polished, but the authenticity is exactly what makes it special.
Nettoor Toddy Shop at Nettoor in Maradu, is by far one of the best toddy shops I’ve visited. This eatery is close to the backwaters. So, the view alone makes it worth the trip. Fish head curry and roast duck are the dishes to try here. The fish head curry is spicy, with a thin gravy, best paired with tapioca, and the duck roast with a thick, peppery gravy goes well with pathiri (thin crepes made from rice flour) or appams (crepes made from fermented rice batter). Situated near the backwaters, Nettoor toddy shop comes with a great view. It’s a great place to take your family, too. Mullapanthal, a small toddy shop in Thrippunithura is another place one could head to for spicy pork dishes and even something exotic like rabbit.
Dinner
While Kayees Rahmatullah Café has long been my go-to for biryani (and it still holds its own), the game changed after I tried Pandari’s in Pullepady and Grand Hotel on MG Road. Without a doubt, Pandari’s takes the crown. They serve the best beef biryani– the beef is mildly marinated and simply succulent. Kayees dishes out the best mutton biryani. They reportedly use the stock used for cooking the mutton, to cook the rice, which gives it a well-rounded flavour.
Kerala biriyani, unlike its North Indian counterpart, doesn’t layer gravied chicken with rice. The rice is cooked with spices, while the marinated meat is cooked separately. And when the rice is almost cooked, the meat is added and cooked together. A lot of times, the biryani is topped with fried onions and cashews. The coconut chutney and date pickle served with this type of biryani make for great accompaniments.
A visit to Kochi without sampling the local catch is practically a crime. At Kettuvallam, tucked away on Kochi-Kadavanthra Road and known for its inviting ambience and mouth-watering dishes, be sure to try the karimeen pollichathu, where pearl spot fish is delicately spiced and steamed in a banana leaf.
Still hungry? Swing by Cheenavala in Edapally where the squid fry, tossed with traditional spices and coconut slivers, is a crowd favourite. Don’t leave without trying the kanthari grilled fish, bursting with the fiery kick of bird’s eye chilli.
