The holy city of Rishikesh satiates different kinds of hunger. For the spiritually starved, the banks of Sai Ghat offer a serene sight of the Ganga flowing endlessly. While for those seeking momentary peace from their hectic 9-to-5, the city allows you to settle into a rhythm at one with nature. And for adventure seekers, there’s rafting, bungee jumping, treks and more.
I arrived at the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ in April for my 200-hour Yoga Teacher Training Course. The month-long satvik diet, a new experience for my tastebuds, ended up awakening my hunger for good, clean food that was delicious, sustainable, and consciously prepared. I decided to explore what Rishikesh has to offer to the foodie in me. Following the lead of local yoga teachers, I weaved through busy markets and narrow slanting lanes looking for food that felt nourishing beyond the plate.
Rishikesh is best explored on foot, and with a long day of walking ahead of me, I began my food trail at the decade-old Ira’s Kitchen and Tea Room, a place famous for its millet-based chillas and pancakes. I’m accompanied by Amit Rana, a traditional Hatha and Iyengar yoga teacher, and the founder of House of Yogis Rishikesh, who promptly orders his go-to Papaya Juice. An all-natural blend with a hint of sweetness, it’s light and comforting.
I soak in the unhurried energy of the space that Gautami, the owner and mother to Ira, her 11-year-old daughter, has created here. Kishori, the genial server, arrives with our Crunchy Bowl with Coconut Cream and Ragi Stuffed Chilla. The bowl combines roasted millets, fresh fruits, coconut cream, and pumpkin seeds, while the Ragi Stuffed Chila is a wholesome millet-based breakfast option. Regulars swear by the Batata Wada, Millet Patty, Mixed Paratha, and Poha.
Just a few metres down the same road is Chakra House Cafe, where I’m accompanied by Naveen Mingwal, an Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Hatha practitioner who has been teaching in Rishikesh for over 13 years. Known for its Avocado Toasts, Cappuccinos, and serene mountain views, the cafe has a quiet, airy warmth to it. The Avocado Egg Sandwich, Mushroom Breakfast, Vegetable Rice Noodles, and Falafel Platter are especially popular here.
Further up on Balaknath Road is Cafe Raha, a lifestyle community space built by longtime friends Harpreet Gill and Ravi Agarwal. Enclosed by plants and cosy outdoor seating, it quickly becomes the kind of place where hours disappear unnoticed over smoothie bowls, shakshukas, and strong coffee.
Their philosophy of eating clean goes deeper than the menu, with preparations done on aluminium-free, non-stick-free utensils and no use of microwaves. Harpreet, who moved to Rishikesh from Australia to learn yoga, says with a smile, “I came here to study yoga, and never left.”
For those looking for a quiet, work-friendly corner, Babylon Restaurant and Pumpernickel German Bakery near Laxman Jhula offers fuss-free breakfasts, oat lattes, and excellent desserts. Their Cinnamon Rolls strike the right balance of sweetness, while regulars swear by their Walnut Cake and Vegan Balls.
The background score of Rishikesh is a symphony of many notes. The city wakes up to the collective “Aum” coming from various yogashalas and morning aartis being performed in temples and ghats. But, as the day passes, a different score takes over—the ecstatic roars of rafters floating down the Ganges. Tired, hungry, wet rafters are seen looking for food with an expression that says it all. It’s lunchtime.
When the heat becomes unbearable for walking around, and being holed up in your room isn’t fun either, head to Chatsang, a cafe overlooking the main Laxman Jhula market. If you manage to get a porch seat, you’re in for some people-watching over a cup of their Double Espresso or Iced Matcha. The cafe mostly attracts foreigners given its popular Israeli menu, their Shakshukas often exceeding expectations, while their pita bread is soft and light enough to make you order another round.
Ganga View Cafe, with its modern glass interiors overlooking the river, feels slightly removed from the chaos of the market outside. Their Watermelon and Feta Salad is vibrant and fresh, while their Banana Walnut Cake and Tiramisu pair especially well with the evening view of the Ganga aarti across the river.
Decades of Western travellers have also shaped the city’s cafe culture. A staple drink across cafes in Rishikesh is—Lemonana—a Middle-Eastern drink made by blending lemon juice, mint, sugar and ice. It’s the perfect respite from the summer heat, and can be found in tourist-friendly cafes like Little Buddha Cafe or Freedom Cafe.
For good satvik thali options, Rajasthani Mishthan Bhandaar remains an institution known for its quality, hygiene, and taste. It’s famous for their North Indian dishes like Paneer Zafrani and Kaju Curry, that satisfy cravings for homely, tasty, and fuss-free food. Nearby, Rawat Restaurant draws hungry crowds with the aroma of fresh Garlic Naan, and tandoor fumes waft across the street. South Indian lovers swear by the Masala Dosa at BeMonk’s and the filter coffee at Anna’s Mess.
If there’s one ritual that Rishikesh follows religiously, it’s tea at the tapris. From yoga students and swamis, to rafters and locals, it’s at these tea stalls that the real confluence of ideas happens.
Serving the best tea in Rishikesh could be a tall claim, if it wasn’t true. Narendra Bisht, known as Mama ji, started this humble tea stall 25 years ago. His speciality is his “chai masala” which he grinds fresh every morning—a recipe he learnt from a Gujarati woman who was travelling here. Foreigners often carry back pre-made chai masala packs and stand behind the stall watching him prepare tea, hoping to recreate it back home. Regulars swear by the Special Tea, Lemon Tea, Karela Biscuits, and Ajwain Cookies.
If coffee is your vibe, Moktan Cafe hits the bullseye. A hole-in-the-wall place, with limited seating, and a dessert display, their Iced Mocha is my go-to order. Their Choco-Banana Bread portion is generous enough to qualify as an entire meal. Other crowd-favourites include Cinnamon Rolls and Choco Balls (vegan) which people are seen carrying around, indulging in them guilt-free.
Coming to Rishikesh and not eating the famous momos from Darjeeling Momos could almost be considered a crime. Serving only two varieties—Vegetable Momos and Paneer Momos—the crowds outside are proof enough of its cult status. The thin coating, wrapped around a lightly spiced paneer filling is served with a spicy peanut and coriander chutney.
Now if you’re a sourdough lover and can’t find a spot that satisfies your sourdough needs, Ra bakery, right next to this momo-dessert shop, serves some of the best sourdough-based bakes in the area. They also serve some of the best pizzas (only on Wednesdays) in town along with delicious cappuccinos. Their Sourdough Focaccia bread, Apple Cinnamon Pudding, and Banana Bread are worth returning for.
As evening settles over the river, Vj’s Giardino by the Ganges transforms into one of the city’s most memorable dinner spots. Started by Pankaj Negi, a former chef at Taj Rishikesh, the restaurant combines his Garhwali roots and Mediterranean flavours.
Overlooking the famous Ram Setu and Janki Setu bridges, the minimally done open seating area comes alive as the sun sets. We tried their Mezze Platter, where the standout was the ragi pita bread topped with basil, garlic and chilli flakes. Their falafels aren’t made from chickpeas, but from a local legume—Gahat—also known as Horsegram in some parts of India. However, it was their Tomato Beetroot Quinoa soup that stood out to me. Locals swear by their Garhwali Thali, an icon in its own right.
For live music and a fun-filled evening, The Arches Cafe & Bakery by SALVUS draws crowds with its pizzas, pastas, and performances. And for authentic Italian-style pizzas, many locals head to A Tavola Con Te for their soft handmade doughs.
In a city where people arrive for healing, stillness, and adventure, every thoughtfully curated plate of food becomes a part of the journey too.
