In Egyptian times, the bartender’s role was solely transactional. The Roman tavern owners remembered their regulars, a nod here, a kind word there. Medieval Europeans made it communal, bartenders often turning referees to settle arguments. Enter the 19th century, bartending became a craft and conversing an added flair.
Zoom into the present, bartenders have become storytellers and educators. They are invested in raising awareness, are armed with knowledge, and are ready to play enthusiastic hosts. Conversation has become a core experience-driven ritual with a two-edged sword. If conducted well, it adds to the guest experience; overdone and it turns into an intrusive attack.
“Hospitality isn’t a TED Talk,” says Vik Singh of Slink & Bardot, adding “The best service is intuitive. You answer questions when they’re asked, you offer context when it’s appreciated, and then you disappear.” From Sunday to Thursday, Slink & Bardot runs a bar within a bar called Koliwada Cocktail Club, designed for curious drinkers. Guests are happy to spend time understanding the ingredients, the inspiration behind a drink or the thinking that went into the menu. Come Friday and Saturday, the attention shifts to having a good time.
The Coveted Bar Seat
Twenty years ago, if you were seated at the bar, you almost felt like you’ve drawn the short straw because your table wasn’t ready. Today, the counter has become one of the most democratic places in hospitality. “People want to see what’s happening behind the counter,” says Singh.
Some bar counter seats are designed in omakase style as social tables, and the countertop is where the theatrics are; evident at Bar Doubble in Bengaluru, Cavity in Delhi, or Boilermaker in Goa. Ajay Nayyar, National Advocacy Lead for Diageo, gives the example of Cobbler and Crew in Pune. “Consumers come to watch bartenders at play. There is emphasis on ice, sustainability and the ingredients. Curious guests can freely ask their questions. Be it why a drink is double strained or the shape of a glassware. This is where art of advocacy comes in,” says Nayyar.
Hiring for these spots is also unique. Bartenders with extroverted personalities and who easily engage with guests helps build the personality of a bar. “Earlier, a barman was only making drinks. Now, communication is key,” says Pankaj Balachandran. He promotes the practice of an elevator pitch in every service model so bartenders can test the consumers. If there is intrigue after our 20-30 second introduction, we extend the chat,” Balachandran adds.
Dishant Pritamani, runs Second House in Goa and Tsuki in Pune, posts the more flamboyant bartenders on the bar where people are supposed to wait. “The moment the bartender asks about their day, a guest feels special. We train staff to notice when a guest smiles and check if they sustain attention.” The conversational service also goes a long way to help servers plug in a drink or dish or talk about your restaurant.
The script is a service sequence. Wish them, pour them water and ask them if you can get them anything. Then, let the guest take the lead. “Guests don’t want a concept, they want an opinion. If you went to buy a car, no point dissecting the engine trivia. Mileage is all that matters,” Yash Bhanage, Founder & COO, Hunger Inc. Hospitality says.
The engagement also really depends on how busy the bar is. Bhanage shares his experience bartending during his time in Chicago. “My biggest learning was the kind of conversations one can have with a guest. Today, it has become a core part of bar service to ensure a guest has a good time,” says Bhanage, stressing on the importance of knowing when to leave a conversation. “Indians are non-confrontational, and also chatty. We train our team to be honest, and pull out of the conversation by telling them they need to get back to the orders,” says Bhanage.
Next time you’re at a bar, notice if the barman feels like a plus one at your table, or drops in to aid the experience. As Singh puts it, “The greatest skill in hospitality isn’t speaking, it’s reading people.”
