In 2018, I found myself on a safari in Sri Lanka, the Jeep rumbling through vast blue skies and rocky terrain. Fresh leopard tracks raised hopes, but six relentless hours yielded only a boa and wild elephants. Disheartened, I deemed the day a failure, unaware it marked the start of an unforgettable journey.
I since dismissed safaris as mere checklists of wildlife sightings until 2023, when a string of transformative experiences brought me back to the wild. This time, it wasn’t just about spotting tigers or leopards—it was about immersing myself in nature through luxurious lodges, private reserves, and intimate buffer zones that offered front-row seats to the pulse of the wilderness.
In Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh, tiger families thrived in diverse landscapes, nurtured by devoted naturalists. Nagpur’s Tipeshwar National Park offered unforgettable moments, including the majestic tigress Talaabwali, ruling her pond-side realm near Tipai Wildlife Luxuries.
Rajasthan added its unique charm. At a boutique lodge in Udaipur’s private forest, nights shimmered with leopards gliding through moonlit clearings, eyes gleaming. Langurs swung through trees, while wild boars dashed through the underbrush.
Guides and naturalists helped deepen my understanding of this intricate web of life. As my safari buddy, Roxanne Bamboat, shared, “These safaris draw you into nature’s rhythm. It’s not just about witnessing animals but understanding their role in the ecosystem. The naturalists engage you in meaningful conversations about conservation, need to be entertaining, yet help you create a connection with the land.” Her philosophy of slowing down to notice nature’s subtleties reshaped how I experienced the wild.
Roxanne’s words resonated with me during every safari I undertook next. The properties I stayed at did more than immerse me in nature—they shaped moments of introspection, offering revelations as profound as they were unexpected.
Safaris often evoke images of elusive big cats—tigers melting into the undergrowth or leopards reclining on ancient rock formations. Yet, these majestic creatures remain distant, their instincts steering them away from human intrusion. While popular reserves like Tadoba and Ranthambore offer frequent sightings, I discovered that the true magic lies beyond the hunt for big cats. It resides in quieter, lesser-known reserves, where the balance of predator and prey plays out in an ecosystem largely untouched by modern life.
At Reni Pani in Satpura, our naturalist Naman added depth to our exploration. I witnessed my first tiger here—a mother with three cubs frolicking at the water’s edge. An hour-long glimpse of their playful energy rippled through the forest as we shifted our gaze to the skies, marvelling at birds of prey that glided peacefully.
Satpura’s terrains, ranging from lush riverbeds to rugged cliffs, cradle the “Super Six”—tigers, leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, Indian gaur, and the giant squirrel. Aly Rashid, owner of Reni Pani and Bori Safari Lodges, observes: “Satpura is unique for its diverse wildlife and terrain. It’s not just about tigers; the variety in landscapes and activities—from walking safaris to canoe rides—makes it a rich experience.” Sunrise vistas and tranquil trails often overshadowed the thrill of spotting wildlife, inducing moments of quiet reflection for me.
In every reserve, the jungle taught me patience and humility. Ghost trees in Udaipur mirrored those in Bori, their pale trunks luminous in the fading light. I was privy to stories of displaced villages and ancient traditions, drawing parallels to urban life. Even a kingfisher darting between branches was a reminder to seek joy in fleeting moments. There was a sense of pride inculcated within the passion with which these naturalists conducted the drives—and it was but a mere reflection of the fact that luxury is indeed not in the lodges we stayed in but right here in nature.
As each day ended, the jungle closed in softly around me, its nocturnal symphony lulling me to sleep. These safaris didn’t just reconnect me to the wild—they rewired something deeper within, offering clarity and calm, an uncanny sense of peace.
It is the unanticipated moments that etch themselves most deeply into memory. At Chunda Shikari Oudi, perched in its own serene forest, the surprises begin with the little things—a golden sundowner atop the property’s highest ridge, a quiet breakfast by the still waters of Menar Lake. “Having your own mini-forest allows for multiple unique activities,” notes Mr. Hada, a naturalist with a deep understanding of the wild. “From movie nights under the stars to unexpected encounters during dinner, the magic lies in the spontaneity.” And indeed, dining by the lakeside, I recall holding my breath as the soft rustle of leaves announced the fleeting presence of a wild boar.
In Jhalana, thanks to the Hyatt Regency Jaipur Mansarovar, surprises come in subtler forms. It is a rare place where leopards coexist along with jackals, porcupines, sambar deers, and within the pulse of a city, the reserve’s compact terrain offering intimate sightings. Yet, it is the intangible elements that linger: the guides’ tales that bring the forest alive, and the awe of discovering 200 species of birds under one habitat.
Further afield, at Reni Pani and Bori Safari Lodges, a boat ride, actually a transfer, through Tawa Reservoir is nothing short of serene, with reflections of the forest shimmering on the water’s surface, the silence broken only by the call of a distant kingfisher. The journey between these lodges feels more like a pilgrimage, not to forget the elaborate breakfast on board. From coffee at Lagda’s rocky outcrop to sleeping beneath a starlit sky, these moments are both humbling and exhilarating.
At Tipai, one such spontaneous moment emerged post-safari, when Keyur Joshi, accompanied by a team of naturalists and staff, invited us on a surprise night walk. With torches piercing the velvety blackness, we wove through spider webs, hooting owls, and the unseen eyes of nocturnal animals. The imminent sense of danger was softened by the reassuring presence of the team. Emerging at a lakeside, we found a warm fire waiting, alongside hot chocolate and cookies. Sitting there, reflecting on the surreal walk and the lurking mysteries we had left behind, I realised how such moments anchor themselves as unforgettable memories.
As Roxanne aptly puts it, “The most surprising part of these safaris isn’t just the wildlife—it’s the way nature and the land have the ability to teach us to pause, to reflect, and to notice things we might otherwise overlook.”
The true essence of a forest isn’t just its big predators but the delicate, interconnected symphony of life that sustains it. Once I allowed myself to embrace this—the rustling leaves, the distant calls of birds, the play of shadows on the forest floor—the carnivores came naturally, as if nature had been waiting for me to truly see.