Until April 2025, my only memory of Bhopal was a fleeting visit as a 17-year-old, on a school trip to study the Sanchi Stupa. Beyond that, Madhya Pradesh was never on my radar as a holiday destination. In my mind, it simply existed — Maharashtra’s quieter neighbour, known for its wildlife safaris and rich cultural history, but not exactly the kind of place that could rally unanimous excitement from a group of friends.
So, when I stepped out of the Raja Bhoj Airport nine years later, into the blaze of a hot Bhopal morning, I was ready for a new experience. What unfolded over the next four days, though, was nothing short of transformative — an experience that rewired my idea of travel itself.
At Jehan Numa Retreat, a luxury resort 30 minutes away from Bhopal’s city center, the quiet awaits you. This intimate 28-key boutique hotel spread across 12.5 acres of lush, untouched greenery was built thoughtfully without cutting down a single tree. The property seemed to breathe with the untamed, wild landscape around it — an oasis of calm I didn’t realise I needed.
The rooms are sprawling, beautifully designed wooden spaces with a private outdoor deck that overlook the property’s rugged landscape, while the outdoor area itself is surrounded by lush, dense bushes and trees. It was a view that instantly slowed my racing mind — no city skyline, no traffic noise, just the gentle hum of nature.
The quiet follows you around as you venture away from the honking of the city, towards the jungle, to the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, a property by Jehan Numa Wilderness located a mere three-hour drive away and here’s where the real test begins.
Reni Pani Jungle Lodge is an earthy-luxury property sprawled across 34 acres of raw wilderness at the edge of Satpura National Park. There are cosy, rustic cottages spread across the property along with tent rooms which are designed to offer you a unique experience by letting you experience wildlife right at your doorstep. Now, there are many different ways to be welcomed into a hotel during vacations. Welcome drinks are one, floral garlands and live music is another, but rarely will you find a gecko, perched on the table right next to the bed, locking eyes with you as if proposing a partnership — natural mosquito repellent in exchange for a little room in your personal space. Reni Pani isn’t the kind of place where you can call room service for a midnight snack, but you can get an occasional knock from a langoor or serendipitous bump in with a leopard should you venture out alone in the night.
I had a sprawling private cottage, tucked away in the forest, and here’s where the real adventure began — no network, no Wi-Fi, no social media, and no intercom to contact anyone else or the reception. As a Gen Z glued to my phone, the idea of a digital detox and isolation terrified me at first. How could I survive with my entourage of bustling thoughts? But as soon as I stepped onto my deck with a cup of fresh coffee in hand, overlooking the sea of yellow and beige wilderness, listening to the symphony of birds, the panic began to ebb. There was an unexpected calm in the disconnection — a slowing down I hadn’t realised my mind craved.
Anyone who knows me would agree — animals and I don’t usually mix. But the safaris changed that. I was awestruck by glimpses of spotted deer, a peacock mid-dance, a baby crocodile basking on the riverbank, and an astonishing variety of birds. I watched a sloth bear amble through the undergrowth and a stealthy leopard lounge by the river before treating us to a rare, regal catwalk. The tiger though remained elusive for our gypsy. Despite trying to sight one in all its likely spots and favourite hangout corners, we were unsuccessful. But just as dusk settled in, we were alerted by the sudden alarm call of the langoor, which climbed as high as possible on the tree next to us. Not five seconds later, a giant male tiger emerged from the bushes diagonally opposite us, casually crossing our path, exuding raw, unchallenged dominance. It was my first-ever wild tiger sighting — a moment that left me stunned into silence. I realised how insignificant our existence as humans is in front of these majestic predators who, if not more, are as smart as us.
The meals at the Jehan Numa Retreat were nothing short of culinary heaven. Most of the food is made using produce grown locally on the properties, which feels like a burst of fresh flavours in every bite. The cocktail hour was a mixology dream. At the Citrus Garden Project, a botanical bar at the Retreat, mixologists craft refreshing cocktails and mocktails inspired by the lush surroundings, using fresh ingredients harvested from the property’s own garden. For us, there was a special ingredient waiting to make itself known — mahua.
For those unfamiliar, mahua is a sacred indigenous flower native to central India, long revered by tribal communities for its medicinal properties and traditionally fermented to make local liquor. Here, though, it had been elevated into sophisticated, summer-ready cocktails — delicate, floral, with a whisper of wildness. I particularly enjoyed the Chapora, a tequila-based cocktail mixed with pineapple, tamarind, coconut water, thyme, ajwain leaves, and mahua. It was a drink that nailed the balance between sweet and sour and left your palate wanting more.
The dinner that followed was a celebration of heritage, showcasing recipes from the royal family’s archives — kothi dishes, as they’re called, as an ode to the house of the Nawabs, which were referred to as Kothis. The recipes have been passed down through generations without so much change as an extra spoonful of garam masala. The highlight for me was the chicken rezala, made Bhopal-style with a vibrant coriander base, light yet bursting with layered flavour, and the Rampuri Chawal, a pulao made with moong daal, served with two chutneys — one with a spinach base and one with a chilli base. Dessert was an unforgettable gulab ki kheer — rice pudding delicately infused with rose petals grown and dried on the property, offering just the mild hint of fragrance.
The Kothi dishes also find their way into the menu at the lodge. For instance, the Junglee Maas, a dish traditionally made on woodfire for hunting squads back in the day, is a treat for your taste buds even today. The dessert options feature the creamy Bhopali phirni and tendu ice cream made out of the fruits of the tendu tree. Here, too, the cocktails give an ode to mahua by offering concoctions like a mahua martini. A specialty of the lodge is the mahua peanut butter, a delicately sweet, brownish butter that pairs excellently with a crispy multigrain toast.
Most people don’t associate Madhya Pradesh with luxury travel. It’s known, if at all, for its temples or tiger reserves. But the forest experiences here are different — Satpura’s jungles are wild yet gentle, untamed but not hostile. As long as you respect the animals’ space and leave them undisturbed, they will respect you and may even occasionally give you a red-carpet-esque pose in the middle of the road during your safari.
Looking back, the four days blurred into one seamless flow of nature, food, wildlife, and soulful disconnection. I didn’t think I could survive without my phone, but I did — and I’m proud of it. Being in the wild heart of India, cut off from the noise, forced me to be present, to listen, to truly see. Nature humbles you. It strips away the illusion of control, making you realise how small and beautifully insignificant you are in its grand design. In Satpura, amidst the towering sal trees and mahua blossoms, I found a version of myself I didn’t know existed — quieter, slower, and infinitely more at peace.
