The signage of the previous restaurant falls with a loud thud as I enter the almost-ready Boilermaker in Siolim, Goa. While the bar is not open to guests yet, the space teases anticipation and expectation. The kitchen team excited about another round of tasting, the content team trying to capture the vibe, and partner Nakul Bhonsle, the founder of the Great State Aleworks pouring exclusive brews with chatter about a missing fridge in the background. The vibe is electric, as it should be a week before the most anticipated bar opening in the country.
In the middle of the action is Pankaj Balachandran, founder of Countertop and co-owner of Boilermaker. Trucker hat, anti-fit T-shirt, ready with a drink and a warm grin. He checks the boxes of what the common perception of someone working in the alcohol industry is, at least visually. But once you sit down for a chat, you discover the quiet influencer behind how India is drinking today.
Enjoyed your drinks at Veronica’s?
Have a favourite at OPA?
Like the new bar menu at Malaka Spice in Pune, or ordered multiple rounds of negroni at Johri and Sons in Jaipur, because one was simply not enough?
If your answer is yes to any of them, then you have tasted the wildly versatile offerings of this award-winning mixologist and bar consultant. But Pankaj is much more than that. He is creating a culture where cocktails and bar programmes enjoy the same status as the menu planning, and are not an afterthought. “I love people who want to genuinely build something special, and not just do it because they want to open a bar,” he shares with the enthusiasm of someone passionate about the art, delivery, and culture of good drinks. He adds, “It’s important they are in the trenches with you. Then you know that they are passionate about the space and not looking at it as just another revenue generator.”
What defines his signature, we probe. “I am good at training people,” he says, still attending Taj training programmes his company runs, even though it’s no longer necessary. Under his guidance, an entire generation of bartenders, mixologists, and sommeliers are discovering and walking a path that perhaps did not exist a decade ago. “I have trained them, so I know what they are up to now,” he says, brimming with the pride of a seasoned mentor.
I first met Pankaj on a cold winter night in Delhi. Run by a group of young men, Perch Wine & Coffee Bar was the talk of the town. Located in the middle lane of the plush Khan Market, they were making drinks that went beyond the usual, and the city couldn’t get enough of it. That was 2015. A lot has changed, and for the good, since then. The market is open and ready for more technical and taste innovations. Nothing is off-limits for the consumer or the mixologist, from citrusy yuzu to smoked bacon or fermented coconut flowers to fiery bhoot jolokia. In this evolving scene, several bartenders creating a buzz today have either been trained by or look up to Pankaj for inspiration.
For him, everything began with a cup of coffee when his father treated him to the Bubble Café at Taj Gateway for doing well on his board exams. However, more than the coffee, the suave GM of the property left Pankaj impressed and inspired to make a career in hospitality. A studious kid and self-acclaimed “frontbencher,” he flew through his hotel management programme with flying colours.
During his time in Dubai as a trainee, learning from the best in the trade, Pankaj was clear, “I wanted to be known as the pioneer of bar and beverages in the country. That’s all I had in my head,” he remembers.
“I wanted to work in the front office, mainly for the air-conditioning,” he admits cheekily. His trainers noticed his natural affiliation towards spirits and wines, which eventually saw him running Rick’s at Taj Mansingh, Delhi.
There are two ways to learn how to swim. One is the traditional route: get a coach, learn the strokes—freestyle, backstroke—and get step-by-step guidance on how to move. The other way? Get thrown into the deep end without warning. “That’s how I learned. No instructions, just survival. You either swim or sink.”
That experience set the tone for how he approached challenges later in life. “I thought I knew everything,” smiling at the memory of that early confidence. But life had other plans. “I’ve always been hungry,” he says, reflecting on his journey. Growing up in Kerala, he didn’t step outside his state until he was 17. “For me, Kerala was everything. Then, college in Mumbai—it was a shock. New faces, new lifestyle. Everything felt different.” That change lit a fire in him. He wanted to be the best, to prove something. “I had to be number one,” he remembers of his college days, “I had to stand out, and I pushed myself to get there.”
That same drive carried over into his career. At 26, when he started with Perch Wine & Coffee Bar, it was all about seizing every opportunity. “Brands would approach me for advocacy programs, bars asked for setup consultations—I’d say yes to everything.” The work piled up, sometimes stretching him thin, but the pressure was exhilarating. “It was tough, but I thrived on it. I didn’t mind being everywhere at once.”
For him, learning didn’t come from hand-holding—it came from challenges. “It was like, ‘Here’s the business, make it work,’ and I had no clue how to do that.” With no rulebook to follow, he built his own. The freedom to figure things out meant learning on the fly, taking hits when things went wrong, and constantly checking in. “Every time, I’d ask, ‘Is this working?’ And when it was, I knew I was onto something.”
Now, with a team in place, he can delegate more, but his love for involvement hasn’t faded. “I still love getting into the thick of things, the frustration when things aren’t working, and the rush when they do,” he says. I sense it’s about pushing through, not just for success but for the satisfaction of making progress.
Back in 2015, the expectations were different. “The baseline then was squeezing fresh lime,” he says with a laugh. “Today, it’s all about sexy glassware, fancy ice, and everything that differentiates a bar from the next.”
He clarifies his role in the bar industry’s rapid evolution, “As a team, we are creating a baseline for bars in India.I like to believe we’ve been leading the way.” This baseline isn’t about people—it’s about raising the standards of bars themselves.
From a personal perspective, he presents how working in the bar industry can be a fulfilling, balanced career. “I’ve tried to demonstrate that this isn’t a bad career choice—it’s how you approach it. You can have a family, buy your own car, and live well,” he adds, reflecting on the stereotypes that surround the hospitality industry. “People often think life in hospitality is tough—that you can’t have a family, that you don’t make enough money, or that you have no balance. I want to show that’s not the case.”
He does walk that talk. “I have a six-year-old son,” he says, his voice softening. “My Sundays are sacred. The world could burn down, but I’m not picking up a work call.” Everyone in his team knows that Sundays are off-limits unless it’s an extreme emergency. “The emergency better be important,” he jokes, making it clear that he’s firm about protecting his family time.
Pankaj feels social media has also helped spread this message. He’s happy to share his views on living life well: “You only have one life—live it right. Work is great, but it’s not everything.”
The idea of opening a bar had been lingering for a while. “It was long overdue,” he admits with a smile. The journey started with a fun idea, born out of his initial days, where the focus was often on getting people “shitfaced.” Laybacks were the thing back then—a rush of spirits poured straight down someone’s throat. It was reckless and wild, but it was part of the culture. However, times have changed. “I don’t do that anymore. I’m a good boy now,” he laughs.
Back at Rick’s, an order sparked an idea that would stay with him for years. Stuart Hudson, a fellow bartender and a master of his craft, ordered something he hadn’t encountered yet—a Boilermaker. It was simple: a shot of whisky followed by a beer. “I had only heard about whisky and beer being risky,” he laughs, “but when I tried it, boy was I wrong. It was beautiful. Sophisticated, even.” It wasn’t just a drink—it was a concept. Something so understated yet elegant.
Years passed, and that idea stayed with him, growing louder in the back of his mind. He introduced the Boilermaker serve in training sessions across India, hoping to share that magic with others. But the drink never quite hit the mainstream the way he had imagined it could.
Fast forward to 2023. Nakul Bhonsle, a known name in the craft beer scene, approached him about collaborating. “I’ve got this space,” Nakul had said, “I want to run a brewery but with cocktails.” It was an intriguing offer. Pankaj visited the site, instantly captivated by its potential. “I knew this wasn’t just a cocktail bar when I saw it. It was bigger than that.”
The two bonded over their shared love for the craft. Nakul had long been a pioneer in India’s craft beer movement with the Great State Aleworks, and Pankaj’s experience with spirits and bars offered an appreciation for both worlds. They saw an opportunity not just to open a bar but to make a statement. And that’s when the name hit him—Boilermaker. “It made sense. Nakul is the king of craft beer, and I’ve been championing spirits and cocktails for years. It was a perfect marriage of the two worlds.” It celebrates both spirit and beer, a homage to craftsmanship and tradition.
What started as a casual drink order has evolved into something much more profound—a symbol of two worlds colliding in the best possible way. It’s more than just a place to grab a drink. It is the manifestation of years of passion, hard work, and a shared love for the craft. “Long story short,” he chuckles, “Boilermaker is here, and I couldn’t be prouder.”
I sense a pulsating energy, not just for success but for the satisfaction of making progress. “I started all this when I was 26,” he reflects, “and that hunger is still there. I’m not slowing down anytime soon.”
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