The place is warmly lit, casting a kind of glow on the faces of the diners. The hum of the outside world fades, replaced by the low murmur of conversation before the show begins. There are no grand chandeliers or cavernous dining halls here. Instead, there’s a chef who knows your name, tells stories, shares memories, and sends you plates of absolutely delicious food. As the evening progresses, you are introduced to a fun team that has made you cocktails, indulged you in banter, or even showed you how to solve a puzzle. As diners, we are bowled over.
That’s probably why within a year of its opening, Papa’s—Hunger Inc.’s 12-seater diner in Mumbai that serves a 13-course tasting menu—was named one of TIME Magazine’s “World’s Greatest Places” in 2025. In the last couple of years, there has been a spurt of smaller more exclusive eateries that have come up. These places often have limited seating, a curated menu, and an atmosphere that feels less like a public restaurant and more like an invitation to a chef’s private table.
One of India’s most celebrated chefs, Chef Prateek Sadhu shocked patrons and colleagues when he left Mumbai at a time when many believed that his career was at its peak, to open a 16-seat restaurant called Naar near Kasauli in Himachal Pradesh. Apart from Papa’s and Naar, Zuru Zuru in Delhi, Farmlore, Naru Noodle Bar, and The Navu Project in Bengaluru, have also adopted this format.
This made us wonder if a fascinating shift is taking place in the ever-evolving landscape of India’s dining scene. Once, luxury dining was synonymous with grand, opulent spaces—lavish buffets and sprawling seating arrangements. Today, the definition of luxury seems to be taking a more intimate, personalised turn.
“With Papa’s, the idea was always to create something more personal—something that felt warm, immersive, and connected. Sameer, Yash, and I believe that food, hospitality, and experiences need a strong narrative to bring everything together. The best way to do that is by being present, engaging with guests, and taking them on a journey. A 12-seater chef’s counter, almost like a chef’s home, gives us the space to do that in a way that wouldn’t be possible in a larger restaurant,” says Hussain Shahzad of Hunger Inc. Hospitality. “There’s been a big shift, especially in Bombay, toward more experiential dining—people are more open to the unknown, trusting the chef to guide them through a meal rather than ordering off a menu. That kind of curiosity and willingness to explore wasn’t as common when I started out,” he adds.
The appeal lies in the experience. Diners aren’t just looking for a good meal; they’re seeking a sense of exclusivity and personal attention. A 10-20 seater chef’s table with a hand-crafted tasting menu feels far more luxurious than a crowded, impersonal five-star hotel buffet. It’s not about being seen anymore—it’s about feeling special.
For Chef Kavan Kuttappa of Bengaluru’s 20-seater Naru Noodle Bar, a perfect intimate dining experience would include, “. . . an open kitchen counter, seeing your food assembled live, whilst toasting with your partner.” It was his experience at small eateries in Japan that inspired him to open Naru. “I felt a greater connection with the food, the space, and the experience itself felt much richer as it was a smaller group and usually characterised by small intimate spaces,” he tells us.
The heart of this trend lies in the shift from extravagance to personalisation. In smaller, intimate spaces, chefs often interact directly with guests, explaining the inspiration behind each dish, sharing stories, and even adjusting flavours based on preferences. This level of interaction fosters a sense of connection.
“At Farmlore, we wanted to break away from the traditional restaurant mould and create a space where guests could truly connect with our food, our story, and each other. Our guests appreciate the attention to detail, the storytelling behind our dishes, and the opportunity to connect with our team and other diners. Guests are seeking unique, tailored experiences that speak to their individual tastes and preferences. Exclusivity, in the sense of having access to something rare and special, is also highly valued,” says Johnson Ebenezer (aka Chef JE) co-founder, Farmlore, Bengaluru, which was recently listed as the ‘One To Watch’ as part of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025.
“With a smaller space, we can be more meticulous about sourcing the finest ingredients, experimenting with innovative techniques and flavour combinations, and providing exceptional, personalised service to each guest,” he points out.
Hussain agrees. “Dining out should be fun, almost like a form of entertainment. Somewhere along the way, fine dining got a little too serious and stiff, but I think we are bringing the joy back. At Papa’s, the experience is fluid and unscripted. Some nights, it’s a deep dive into the ingredients and techniques. Other nights, it’s conversations about travel, music, or even the city itself. The energy shifts with the people around the counter—no two nights are ever the same,” he explains, adding that it’s also about paying attention to the diner’s likes and dislikes.
“After guests have made a reservation online, there is always a conversation that follows. Someone from our team personally calls to understand preferences, dietary restrictions, and even spirit or cocktail choices. We also make it a point to ask if they are celebrating a milestone. We look for ways to tailor the evening, making adjustments, so that by the time a guest walks in, they already feel like they are part of something special.”
When we ask the chefs if running eateries with a small seating capacity makes economic sense, Hussain says, “Smaller restaurants give you a lot more control. With a tasting menu, you know exactly what’s being served, to whom, and how it’s being prepared. That means you can plan better, reduce waste, and keep operations tight. Teams are smaller, and many of the overhead costs that come with a large restaurant don’t exist.” That said, he also points out that there are other pressures—rent, salaries, and the reality of running a business. “For us, being above Veronica’s makes all the difference. It allows Papa’s to exist in a way that makes sense, where the love and support for Veronica’s help balance things out.”
Kavan believes that the numbers for intimate dining spaces can go either way. “Some small intimate spaces are a labour of love and experience. So there isn’t much room for a high profit, while a small space that is running a packed house can sometimes return larger dividends owing to small overheads. At Farmlore, Johnson and his team have figured out that “. . . their model allows for greater control over costs, more efficient use of resources, and a stronger connection with our guests, which can lead to increased loyalty and repeat business.”
While storytelling and keeping the diners engaged may sound like a lot of fun, it’s a tough one for restauranteurs to pull off and requires them to be at the top of their game throughout the service. “Holding a room of 12 people for three hours is as much about storytelling and energy as it is about cooking. You have to be present—not just in the kitchen but in the moment with your guests. It takes a mix of skill, social awareness, and intuition to read the room, steer the conversation when needed, and make every guest feel like they are part of something special,” Hussain shares.
However, figuring out how much attention is too much attention can be a challenge too. “Maintaining consistency, managing expectations, and balancing creativity with practicality are all key challenges. Ensuring that each guest feels valued and attended to, while also respecting their boundaries and preferences, can be a delicate balancing act,” says Johnson.
That’s not all. Kavan tells us that vendors are used to larger quantity orders. “This in turn, dictates our pricing etc. And, in an intimate small space, where there are errors, there is nowhere to hide.
The wait to be able to make a reservation at many of these eateries isn’t for the faint-hearted. In the past year, some of these restaurants have taken to social media platforms to talk about how to reserve a table at their eateries. Many of them now accept online reservations only to avoid the wrath of disappointed customers.
There’s a psychological factor at play. Humans are naturally drawn to what feels rare or difficult to access. An intimate dining space that requires a reservation weeks in advance—or one that only hosts a handful of guests per evening—carries an air of exclusivity. It taps into the desire to feel part of something special, something not everyone can experience.
“Exclusivity is something that is born out of having a limited supply-to-demand ratio. This is an effect of choosing to do things a certain way and keeping it tight. Our reservations are taken on a set time every week,” says Kavan
The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated this shift toward smaller, more controlled dining environments. After months of social distancing, people developed a newfound appreciation for intimate, safe spaces where they could enjoy a meal without the anxiety of crowded venues. Even now, with restrictions lifted, that preference for privacy and cosiness lingers. As people become increasingly discerning about how they spend their time and money, they are likely to want unique, personalised experiences. And in a country where food has always been a celebration, a memory, and a shared experience, maybe this shift isn’t surprising after all.
