The lanes of Kala Ghoda in South Mumbai pack more character and glamour per inch than any other stretch in the city. As Mumbai expanded northward, this once-alluring neighbourhood lost some of its curb appeal, with the action shifting to Lower Parel, BKC, Juhu, and Andheri. But Kala Ghoda is staging a revival, reclaiming its status as a hub for art, heritage, fashion — and now, food.
Kala Ghoda has become the hub of haute again!
Kala Ghoda’s popularity is far from new. In the late 1940s, a bespectacled man sat daily by the window of The Wayside Inn, now home to Punjab Grill. Fuelled by countless cups of tea and sandwiches, Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar worked tirelessly here, framing the Indian Constitution. From his seat, he would have seen the iconic statue of the Prince of Wales astride a horse, which lent the area its name. While it’s debatable if he pioneered the ‘work from anywhere’ trend, he undeniably gave Kala Ghoda — with evocative street names like Rampart Row and Ropewalk Lane — its enduring image of creative cool.
Even 75 years on, Mumbai’s ‘black horse’ district remains vibrant. This heritage mile, once within the British fort, has long been defined by colonial architecture, charming bylanes, and iconic establishments. While some landmarks have vanished, others endure — like Trishna with its butter pepper garlic crab, Khyber with priceless paintings and North West Frontier cuisine, and Chetana with its bookstore and thalis. Newer icons have also found a devoted following. The area’s glam transformation began in 2009 with Farhad Bomanjee’s legendary Kala Ghoda Cafe, a trendsetter in its own right. The Bahls, owners of Khyber, followed suit, turning their nightclub Red Light into the fine-dining Cheval (French for ‘horse’), which later evolved into the popular 145 Kala Ghoda in 2015, paying homage to its stylish address.
As art galleries and fashion salons proliferated, so did Kala Ghoda’s dazzling dining scene. The plush Rue De Liban by Jay Mehta, one of the city’s finest Middle Eastern restaurants, sits pretty on a corner flanked by Ayub’s, a modern-day Mumbai success story of the streetside kebab vendor who made it big. Adding to the plurality of the place is Knesseth Eliyahoo Jewish synagogue, home to a kosher restaurant.
Chef Moshe Shek’s Knead, a kosher bakery and café, reflects his Jewish heritage. But that’s not its main draw. Serving vegetarian Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare in a cozy, pet-friendly space, it’s been a hit since its 2021 launch. Vegetarian dining, it seems, thrives in Kala Ghoda. Annie Bafna’s beloved The Nutcracker continues to charm, while the stylish Sequel, originally by Vanika Choudhary, maintains its fanbase despite changing hands. Ankit Gupta and Chirag Chhajer’s vegetarian Burma Burma also found success here before expanding citywide. Inspired by this trend, debutant restaurateur Vedant Shah launched the vegetarian Vietnamese eatery, Plural, adding yet another gem to the neighbourhood.
The new epicentre of epicurean cool
With Kala Ghoda’s gentrification came a wave of eye-catching, Instagrammable spots that also deliver on flavour. Think Sanjana Patel’s La Folie, Ruchyeta Bhatia and Amit Sharma’s Poetry by Love & Cheesecake, Neville Bose’s Malido, and Mehboob Khan’s Bakehouse Café. These places have become staples of the neighbourhood’s evolving vibe. It’s no surprise that Sameer Seth and Yash Bhanage of Hunger Inc chose this area for their Bombay Sweet Shop, a playful take on Indian sweets. Inside, a sign reads, “Tradition ka naya edition” — a phrase that perfectly captures the essence of Kala Ghoda.
The area attracts its share of reel creators and posers, thanks to the ever-popular Kala Ghoda Arts Festival and the pedestrian-only weekends. But beyond the buzz, locals within a 10 km radius are rediscovering its charm. With improved dining options and fewer traffic hassles, the area is reclaiming its status as a hub for quality dining.
When Chef Alex Sanchez left The Table in Colaba, he chose Kala Ghoda’s Nagindas Master Road for his game-changing restaurant and bar, Americano. Its near-cult following soon drew more restaurateurs to these lanes. Earlier this year, Sanchez doubled down on the area with Otra, a sleek South American spot just two minutes from Americano, showcasing his confidence in the neighbourhood. Chef Farrokh Khambata, famed for Joss in the late ’90s, now runs Joss Chinoise and the Indian eatery Jaan here, while home chef Jasleen Marwah chose Kala Ghoda for her standout regional Indian restaurant, Folk. Adding to the allure, Kala Ghoda Café unveiled a ‘secret’ wine bar in the back, now a favourite haunt for those in the know.
The newest addition is Across, a modernist Himalayan restaurant by Prakriti Lama Patel and Chef Viraf. Within its first week, eager diners lined up, ready to explore new flavours and pay a premium for the experience. This enthusiasm reflects the discerning crowd Kala Ghoda attracts and solidifies its status as South Mumbai’s hottest dining destination.
