Driving across the Durgam Cheruvu cable bridge to Hyderabad’s HiTECH City gives you a brilliant view of an incredible skyline as you approach the Sattva Knowledge Park. Set on the ground floor, the first thing you notice when you step past the large wood and glass doors of Terrāi is the elegant earthiness of terracotta across the restaurant. And that’s just the beginning of how it champions Telangana culture and food.
The love for food from his Telangana roots is deeply ingrained in Rohit Kasuganti, founder and CEO, TSK Food Works. School holidays were spent understanding the workings of his father’s restaurant in Karimnagar, approximately 135 km from Hyderabad. With engineering and MBA degrees in hand, Rohit chose another path – the world of restaurants. His first dining concept, Telangana Spice Kitchen (TSK), opened in 2018. With its success, Rohit and his wife Anisha Deevakonda who has a background in venture capital and the creation of marketing strategies for start-ups, have now opened Terrāi – a restaurant that honours their Telangana culinary roots, with a touch of contemporary creativity.
Spread over 12,000 sq.ft., seating around 250 guests, Terrāi has four dining sections – a central expanse, a private one for small groups, a chef’s table and an al fresco space. All through, you will find a tip of the hat to Telangana’s culture. Like the Ikat blocks that are moulded onto the walls mural-like, or the way Dokra Art is adapted into frames that are displayed. The ceiling has lighting fixtures that resemble the flower arrangements created during the festival of Bathukamma. While there is a touch of traditional Telangana all around, the space still exudes a buzzing and hip vibe.
When compared to its Andhra counterpart, Telangana food has a few distinct differences. Both cuisines have a vast vegetarian repertoire, though Telangana prefers lamb, goat and flatbreads like jonna rotte (jowar rotis), while Andhra has more seafood and rice. Andhra cuisine has comparatively higher spice levels.
The menu at Terrāi has its food set on three pillars. Dishes that stick to traditional cooking methods, those that are reimagined and those that are ingredient-focused.
Start with the dill and fenugreek fritters, a dark green, deep-fried delight, perfect with the peanut chutney alongside. Try the Karimnagar Fried Chicken Wings, a tribute to TSK and its most popular dish. It has crunch, spice, texture and is possibly one of the best ways to treat chicken. The Gongura (Sorrel leaves) paneer tikka is an interesting blend of Telangana flavours into paneer. The Fish Tikka gets a piquant uplift with raw mango. The spicy Mutton Shikampuri Kebab, a Hyderabad old city favourite, gets another layer of flavour with the dill- yoghurt dip that accompanies it. For completely traditional flavours try the garelu (lentil fritters) with the natu kodi curry (or neer dosas); a very homely combination that is hearty, spicy and satiating. And if you crave something hot and soothing, the farmer’s staple khichdi is one to order.
For desserts, try the Kanda Baksha Gaddalu made with jaggery and yam or the Rose Saffron Mousse with an almond biscuit base.
To elevate native ingredients, Terrāi works with the Deccan Development Society (DDS), a cooperative associated with around 5000 Dalit farmers, 95 percent of whom are women. All the millets and pulses the restaurant uses are from this initiative. Terrāi is now working closely with DDS on flavour profiles and the steady availability of uncultivated greens (those that grow symbiotically but are not planted).
Terrāi has a robust bar programme, using several local ingredients. Try the signature TSK with tequila, saline and gongura pickle. The Star Martini has gin as its base with star anise, passion fruit, citrus and ginger ale.
Rohit and Anisha are all about nostalgia and storytelling, and this reflects in everything at Terrāi. The doff of the hat to TSK with the Karimnagar Fried Chicken is one such. Be sure to open the menu and look for Fayaz’s photo, the cook who created the dish at the original outlet and who continues to work there.
Address: Address: Terrāi, Ground Floor, Gate #7, Sattva Knowledge Park, Silpa Gram Craft Village, HiTECH CITY, Hyderabad
Call: +91 89883 58888
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