Every April, as the golden sun lingers longer in the sky and warm winds rustle through banana palms, you know that a quiet, familiar transformation has begun. Poila Boishakh —the Bengali New Year—is near, and like every year, it isn’t just a date on the calendar but a feeling in the air, carried in the scent of blooming joba flowers and the arrival of the season’s first mangoes. The kitchen comes alive —the mortar and pestle pound spices in rhythmic beats. The heat is thick, but the work is usually joyous.
The haats (local markets) in Kolkata are a riot of colours and a cacophony of voices. Mounds of green mangoes—still raw and tart—lie beside baskets of plump tomatoes, tender ridge gourds, glossy brinjals, and bunches of fragrant coriander. Summer has arrived, and with it, a treasure trove of produce that will soon find its way into the Poila Boishakh feast.
Celebrated on the first day of the Bengali calendar (usually April 14 or 15), Poila Boishakh marks a fresh start—new account books for traders (haal khata), visits to temples, blessings from elders, and of course, a sumptuous feast— because which Bengali festival is complete without that? “As a child, the festive occasion meant new clothes, the smell of leftover nolen gur still lingering in the pantry, and the sound of Tagore’s songs playing on the radio,” artist and home-chef Ananya Banerjee tells us.
The day coincides with the peak summer, which significantly influences what graces the dining table. The extreme heat encourages a menu that’s not just festive but also mindful of the body’s needs during this sultry season. It is here that seasonal summer produce—cooling, hydrating, and bursting with local flavour—plays a starring role. From kuler achar (a pickle made with Indian Jujube) and kancha aam er chatney (raw mango chutney), menus are adjusted as per what the land gives you.
For Kolkata-based designer Bappaditya Biswas, whose store is home to the popular Byloom Canteen, “Coolers like aam-pora sarbat (a cooler made with smoked green mango) kacha lonka aar dhoney pata chatni (green chilli and coriander chutney), sosar (cucumber) raita are all important elements of a summer meal. Our Radhaballabhi, which is on the menu from early summer, is made from a special combination of biulir daal (black gram) and mouri (fennel). Mouri is usually associated with its distinct aroma, but it’s also a cooler.”
Ananya explains that the spread in rural and urban Bengal may differ, but the philosophy remains common. “In urban Bengal, Poila Boishakh today is often a grand affair—restaurant specials, curated thalis, catered meals, and Instagram-worthy plating. In contrast, rural Bengal celebrates more intimately. There’s a strong reliance on fresh, seasonal, locally grown produce. The essence, however, is the same: starting the year with a clean heart and a nourished body.”
One of her early visits to rural Bengal led Ananya to discover a dish that she now cherishes in the summer. “During a family trip, I tasted Aam Shol—a dish made with smoked snakehead fish and raw mangoes. The way the tartness of the mango cut through the richness of the fish left an impression on me.”
For food blogger and home chef Debjani Chatterjee Alam, whose ancestral home is in Central Kolkata, seasonal ingredients in her meal included “Neem, Sojne Datta (drumsticks) and Sojne Phool (drumstick flowers).” The meal often begins with something bitter, in keeping with Ayurvedic principles. Summer sees a bounty of uchhe (bitter gourd) and fresh neem pata (neem leaves), both known for their medicinal qualities.
A traditional starter like neem begun—crispy fried neem leaves with diced brinjal—is quite popular, especially in more traditional households. It’s a detoxifying start to the meal and is believed to protect against seasonal illnesses common in summer. In the bitter gourd and raw banana stew called sukto, the bitterness is mellowed with milk and mustard paste.
Though available all year round, pui shaak (Malabar spinach) and palong shaak (spinach) are particularly lush in the summer. They’re usually lightly stir-fried or cooked with lentils and small fried lentil dumplings (bori). Muger Dal (moong dal) also features prominently, often tempered with dry red chillies and served with a squeeze of lemon. Sometimes, grated bottle gourd or ridge gourd is added to the dal to make it lighter and more hydrating.
While the ripest mangoes come a little later in the season, early varieties may already make an appearance by mid-April. These are often served simply—sliced and chilled—as a refreshing end to a heavy meal. But green, unripe mangoes are even more commonly used during this time.
The heart of the meal is the kancha aam er chutney (green mango chutney), tangy and sweet, glistening in its final form. It is served last, as per tradition, its sticky sweetness clinging to fingers and hearts alike. The raw mangoes are peeled and grated, then cooked slowly in mustard oil with sugar, panch phoron, and a touch of red chilli. It is like tasting summer in a spoon—refreshing and sharp. Another classic dish is the Aamer Tok, which often finds a place towards the end of the meal to cleanse the palate. It also cools the body and aids digestion.
“Tok dal (lentils cooked with raw mangoes) has always been a staple in my home for a New Year meal. It’s always pulled out of the fridge. Shukto is also always served cold in our house in summer. The gravies or jhols become lighter as the season changes,” says Chef Avinandan Kundu of Sienna Cafe in Kolkata.
Meat and fish are also an important part of the celebration. “Mangshor Jhol and Bhaat – Mutton curry and rice – has always been an important part of our feast. It’s mandatory,” says Debjani. I use green mango in my non-vegetarian recipes like Aam Shol, chicken with mango, pork with green mango, and fish with pineapple,” she explains.
Ananya uses natural coolants like poppy seeds, coconut, yoghurt, and mustard in her meat and seafood preparations. At Byloom Canteen, the menu is tweaked as per the season. “Our mangshor chop (mutton cutlet) has a modern twist. The traditional manghor chop would be hot and spicy. We add green peas and cashew to make it milder, but it stays delicious,” Bappaditya tells us.
Other seasonal favourites that are part of the festive spread in some homes include Topa Kuler Achaar made from Indian jujube, Sheem Begun Jhol (broad beans and brinjal curry), and Ghati Kochu (a variety of arbi with cooling properties). “My favourite is Ambula, or aamshi- a dried mango preserved from the previous season, which adds incredible depth to simple dals or macher tok,” says Ananya.
No Poila Boishakh is complete without sweets, and even here, the season leaves its mark. “While Mishti Doi (sweet yoghurt) is popular, we make Narkhel (coconut yoghurt) Doi. Prepared with coconut milk, it’s great for the summer heat. Another treat is Tok Doi (sour yoghurt), which is often served chilled, plain, or with a drizzle of jaggery. It cools the stomach and provides a refreshing contrast to the spiced mains,” says Debjani.
Over the last few years, many chefs have given the traditional feast a contemporary makeover. Last year for Poila Boishak, Sienna Cafe served a Shapla (Waterlilly) Shukto (a light broth that was served cold). This year, you can try the Bazaar Ceviche. “It has nothing to do with any fish or meat. The ingredients include different gourds, fruits, melons, and whatever is available fresh in the markets, and this is cured with a raw mango broth,” Avinandan explains.
Ananya makes Aam Shorshe Chingri Tartlets—a canapé twist on a mustard prawn curry with raw mango and a Tok Doi Cheesecake using hung curd and (taaler Gur) jaggery. “The idea is to retain the essence of the dish while presenting it in a form that excites the modern palate. It’s tradition with a wink.”
