In an open kitchen, a bunch of juicy heirloom tomatoes dance in a pan before they are tossed along with freshly made sauce and hand-rolled pasta. Under the expertise of Chef Alessio Banchero, Celini, the Italian restaurant at Mumbai’s Grand Hyatt has introduced the concept of ‘Meglio in compagnia’ or meals that are better shared in company. This interactive dining experience allows guests to witness live preparations of select dishes. In its new avatar, the restaurant will feature dishes from the chef’s hometown in Genoa, Italy.
While European food at large is having a moment in India, Celini is just one of the many newly launched or re-launched Italian restaurants of late and our social media feed is flooded with images of Caprese Salads and Negronis. There’s Cafe Dali, a Tuscan restaurant opened in Delhi’s Lodhi Road, Nanna’s Negroni in Pune, Casa Pasta Bar in Delhi’s Hauz Khas, and Mezzo Mezzo in JW Mariott Juhu, to name a few.
In recent years, the Indian food and beverage scene has witnessed a noticeable resurgence of Italian cuisine. From upscale trattorias to cosy pizzerias and chic cafes, Italian food seems to be popping up across the country with renewed vigour. But what’s fueling this comeback?
For many Indians, Italian food — especially pizza and pasta — has long been a go-to for casual dining and takeout. Before a much-awaited cricket tournament, we asked our colleagues what they would binge on while watching the match and pizza emerged right on top of the list. Well, it’s simple, hearty, and undeniably comforting. Much like our love for dal-chawal or a piping hot plate of biryani, a cheesy pizza or a creamy bowl of pasta has that familiar, indulgent satisfaction. Over the years, chains like Domino’s and Pizza Hut played a big role in bringing these flavours into our mainstream palate.
“You go to the average bar or pub in any Indian city today, they may not serve butter chicken but are likely to have a Margherita Pizza on the menu,” says Amrut Mehta, second-generation owner of Little Italy, a restaurant that opened in Pune, 36 years ago and has around 50 outlets across four countries today. “We had a hotel, back in the day and my father made friends with one of the Italian chefs who said he could start a small pizzeria in the basement. We started with just 10 pizzas on the menu. At the time standalone Italian restaurants were mainly found in 5 Star hotels.” Pune was home to the Osho commune and that brought in an expat population of ‘sanyasis’ from across the globe, which gave the restaurant its initial popularity.
“In the 90s a few Indians started coming into the restaurant, earlier it was only the expats. In 1995 we started the first Little Italy restaurant in Mumbai. There was hardly any awareness then. We asked guests if they wanted penne, fusilli or spaghetti and they would say – no, we want pasta! Earlier, an Italian restaurant would have red sauce, white sauce, and maybe a pesto and a pink sauce pasta.”
What we’re seeing now goes beyond fast food. Cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru, and Goa are witnessing the launch of high-end Italian establishments, while casual pizzerias and cafés are flourishing as well. The possible reason for this shift is the increasing exposure to global food culture. Travel, social media, and international food shows have made consumers more curious and discerning. They’re no longer content with over-processed, one-size-fits-all versions of Italian dishes.
The new wave of Italian eateries is meeting this demand — offering everything from Tuscan-style grills to Neapolitan pizzas. “Italian food offers a variety of options suitable for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians, which is a crucial factor in a country with diverse dietary habits,” says Alessio. “There are other similarities between India and Italy – they share a passion for protecting their traditional culinary heritage that is infused with stories, celebrations, and classic family recipes,” he explains.
According to Chef Prakash Chettiyar, Director of Culinary at JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar which has an award-winning Italian restaurant Romano’s, “Emilia-Romagna, considered Italy’s food capital, has had a massive influence on new Italian restaurants in India. It is located between Milan and Florence and a lot of the country’s authentic ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan cheese), Prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham), and Aceto Balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar) originate from this region. Menus across India are now focussing on these traditional high-quality ingredients.”
Italian food is familiar enough to feel comforting, yet diverse enough to keep things exciting. A carbonara or Margherita pizza doesn’t need much explanation, but a squid ink risotto or truffle pasta still brings in that aspirational, “special occasion” vibe. Italian dishes pair beautifully with wines, and many new establishments are curating extensive wine lists and serving aperitivo-style cocktails. With wine-pairing dinners, and interiors reminiscent of Tuscan countryside villas, these restaurants offer diners “the whole Italian experience.”
Additionally, with the wellness wave influencing food trends, many Italian dishes are adapted – think thin-crust pizzas with fresh veggies, olive oil-based sauces, lean protein toppings, whole-wheat and gluten-free pasta, and dairy-free gelatos.
Italian cuisine has a unique advantage in the Indian market — it straddles the line between indulgent and versatile. From a business perspective, Italian food also lends itself well to different formats — from quick-service pizza joints to high-end fine dining and delivery-only cloud kitchens. The ingredients, while perceived as premium, are increasingly available and locally sourced. Fresh basil, mozzarella, artisanal bread, and olive oil are no longer rare imports; making supply chains more manageable and profit margins healthier.
“There are certain ingredients that we source from Italy to retain the authentic flavours; truffles. Acquerello rice and Fabbri fruit syrup to complement our Gelatos. Having said that, we also have collaborated with local artisanal producers who deliver fresh produce. Also, we have our own organic garden at the hotel where we grow various microgreens and fresh vegetables,” Alessio tells us.
According to Amrut, “In the last five to seven years, there has been a wave of new age gourmet brands that do artisanal cheese at a scale, so that the price is more affordable. Technology is better and the shelf life of these cheeses has improved. For example, Burrata is a very perishable cheese. Earlier you’d get a seven-day shelf life now it’s increased to 15 days. This lets us optimise our inventory and reduces the risk.”
There was a time when Italian food dominated the dining scene in India, especially in the early 2000s. However, with newer global influences, especially the popularity of sushi, dim sum, and Thai food, Italian cuisine took a backseat. For a while, it seemed like Italian cuisine in India had reached its peak and was slowly fading into the background.
The excitement around Indian regional fare also contributed to its decline, as food enthusiasts turned their attention to hyperlocal delicacies from different states. However, in a surprising yet welcome turn, Italian restaurants seem to be making a grand comeback. While nothing dethrones Indian cuisine from the top spot, with the desi version of Chinese food, that has been around a long time, following closely, can Italian food be a strong contender for third position?
There isn’t a doubt that it has transcended its ‘exotic’ label and found a permanent spot in the hearts of Indians, especially urban millennials and Gen Z diners. “Social media and digital channels have transformed the popularity of Italian restaurants. Dishes such as handmade pasta, and even desserts, tastefully crafted into pieces of art, are Instagram-friendly. This generates interest and brings in customers. Restaurant reviewers, food influencers showcasing raw materials, preparation methods, and even the conceiving of the meal have raised the appeal and demand even higher,” says Prakash.
With demand rising, more restaurateurs are likely to ride the Italian wave. Hybrid menus that blend Italian techniques with Indian ingredients or vice versa are already gaining traction. Italian cuisine’s comeback in India may not be just a fleeting trend — it’s possibly a reflection of evolving tastes, smart business models, and a timeless appeal.
