The rains may bring romance to the plate, but they also bring questions. With rough seas, breeding fish, and frozen alternatives crowding menus, what does eating seafood during monsoon really mean for our health, sustainability, and palate?
At 6:45 AM, the pavements outside Citylight Market in Mumbai glisten with rain, and so do the eyes of fish lovers scanning baskets for the day’s freshest catch. The tarpaulin roofs sag with last night’s rain. There’s a whiff of salt, diesel, and fresh mackerel in the air. A fisherwoman fans away flies with a plastic sieve. Amid the bustle, a familiar figure weaves through the stalls. Meldan D’Cunha, owner of Mumbai’s beloved Soul Fry Bar & Kitchen in Bandra, has been doing this ritual for over three decades. Raincoat flapping, bags ready, he has relied on this neighbourhood market, tucked near his Bandra home, to find the day’s best catch.
“I’ve seen every market in Mumbai, but this one? The sheer variety,” he says, inspecting a crate of prawns. He has his regular fishwallas and his trusted circuit. “The joy,” he says, “is in spotting the best pomfret or surmai before anyone else. You form relationships with your fisherwomen. You learn to read the glint of the scales, the sheen of the gills.” But come monsoon, even seasoned eyes see a shift. “The big fish just aren’t available. Even the small ones shrink in size,” says Meldan.
India’s coastal waters see a natural slowdown during monsoon. With stormy seas and safety risks, India’s West Coast imposes a 60-day ban on fishing under the Maharashtra Marine Fisheries Regulation Act. It’s nature’s off-season. Boats stay docked, and nets are rolled up. As rains drench the coast, Shravan arrives, too. A sacred month for Hindus, during which many people traditionally fast and avoid seafood.
The monsoon, however, doesn’t automatically mean a seafood ban. What matters is where your fish comes from, how it’s kept fresh, and the principles you choose to eat by. “It is more dangerous for fishermen to go fishing in the monsoon due to winds, swell and currents. Having said that, small-scale fishers are less at risk because they stay close to the shore, make short trips, and only go on days when the weather is favourable. It’s also good practice to support small-scale fishers during this time,” says Dr. Divya Karnad of InSeason Fish, an initiative led by a dedicated group working to promote sustainable fishing and safeguard both human health and marine ecosystems.
Divya believes, “Seafood is not particularly more or less risky to eat during the monsoon.” The only difference may be in terms of availability, as the West Coast fishing ban coincides with the monsoon, and there may be fewer fish available. This may incentivise some unscrupulous vendors to try to sell old fish. However, this is not standard practice,” she explains, adding that “If pollution norms are not followed, heavy metals and other pollutants could get washed into the sea, more than usual during the monsoon. As a result, marine life will be more affected. However, these effects are long-term, not monsoon-specific. Whatever washes into the sea this monsoon could affect our health, through seafood, for many years to come.” Goa-based consultant chef Gracian D’Souza says, “If you’re going to eat fish in the monsoon, make sure it’s fresh. Check the gills. Bright red is a good sign; the smell is clean, and the flesh is firm. Or go frozen, but be cautious.”
Many people believe that the monsoon is a blanket breeding season for all fish, but the reality is more nuanced. Yes, species like hilsa, mackerel, pomfret, and prawns do spawn during these months, which is why fishing bans are enforced across coastal states to allow marine life to replenish. However, Divya points out that “Not all fish breed at the same time, or even in the same regions. Because fish breed at different times of the year, it is important to make the switch and choose alternative seafood while your favourite fish are breeding. InSeason Fish has a whole list of fish that are safe and unsafe to eat as per the season.”
Some restaurants tweak their menus, offering specials featuring inland fish. “Try freshwater fish such as rohu or katla instead. They’re widely available and great in curries. Cultivated prawns, responsibly farmed, are also a good option. There’s also Red Snapper, which will start being available in Mumbai by the end of July or early August. Barramundi (also known as Bhetki or Chonak in Goa) is another option, although it’s quite expensive. Avoid baby fish (no baby pomfret, no baby surmai and even anchovies or Mandali),” Meldan recommends.
Fish is a staple ingredient in many menus. “During monsoons, when the fresh catch is dwindling, restaurants turn to frozen or imported options. Many restaurants rely on importing fish. Whether it is John Dory, Chilean Sea Bass, or food-grade tuna, these varieties serve as replacements,” says Gracian. “It’s about maintaining the menu without compromising safety.”
If you’re willing to switch things up, this is the season to explore beyond the sea. Vegetarian options, such as Tofu, are also popular alternatives among those craving seafood. “Jackfruit, banana stem, yam, colocasia leaves and even mushrooms work. They’re earthy, hearty, and satisfying,” says home chef Ananya Banerjee. “I often make banana flower chops or jackfruit kosha instead of fish during the rains.” At Soul Fry, too, there’s a pivot. “You’ll see pork, paya soups, stews, and more roast meats on the menu. That’s what guests want when the skies pour,” says Meldan.
This isn’t the time for carpaccio or sushi. “Raw prep is a no-go unless you know exactly where it’s from,” warns Gracian. Ananya agrees. “High heat is your best friend during the monsoon. Deep-frying, pan-searing, or steaming till fully done helps kill any bacteria or parasites that might sneak in due to humidity or mishandling. Avoid half-cooked or pickled seafood unless you trust the source completely,’ she says.
Storing seafood correctly is also key. “It needs to be put on crushed ice. The ice needs to be changed periodically. Batch freezing is important. Restaurants also use techniques like a seafood brine, which helps store seafood for a longer period,” says Gracian.
While there’s no magic masala to make bad seafood safe, Indian kitchens have always used spices to support digestion. “Turmeric, ginger, garlic, fenugreek, mustard seeds, and even kokum or tamarind do more than add flavour. They’re functional,” says Ananya. The monsoon isn’t just a break in the weather. It’s a reset button for the oceans, for kitchens, and for the way we eat. So the next time you crave a fish fry when it pours outside, take a moment to think about respecting cycles, traditions, and the science that guides them.
