If you asked someone in 2020 or even 2021 about their go-to spirit in India, you would not hear mezcal as one of the response. Cut to 2024, and mezcal has all the buzz now. We have also seen a sudden rise in the consumption of agave-based spirits such as mezcal. The Indian alcohol industry has predominantly been dominated by whisky, vodka, rum, gin, and beer. However, the rise of mezcal and tequila in India doesn’t seem like a trend or a fad. After years of riding on the homegrown gin wave, I think it is safe to say that we have a new spirit under the spotlight now.
Mezcal is a distilled spirit made from agave, a succulent native to the arid regions of America. At the same time, tequila is also made from the blue agave plant and is primarily found in the area surrounding the city of Tequila in Mexico. The red volcanic soils in the region of Tequila are suited for growing the blue agave and more than 300 million plants are harvested each year. Due to its historical and cultural importance, the region near Tequila was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006, the Agave Landscape and Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila. While tequila is made only from the blue agave plant, mezcal can be made from a variety of agave.
According to Mexican state laws, tequila can be produced only in the state of Jalisco and other limited regions whereas mezcal can be produced in selected other Mexican states as well. The mezcal produced in these regions became distinctive enough to become known as “tequila” (after the town). Before the production of either tequila or mezcal, pulque had been brewed from agave for thousands of years.
To simplify, all tequila can be categorised into mezcal but not all mezcal is tequila.
According to the Mezcal Market Size and Growth Forecasts (2020 – 2030) Report, the Mezcal market globally was valued at US $1,469.17 million in 2022 and is expected to reach US $2,393.57 million by 2030. It is estimated to register a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.3% from 2022 to 2030.
The report states that the evolution of consumer preferences has played a pivotal role in driving the mezcal market. “Modern consumers increasingly seek unique sophisticated spirits that go beyond the ordinary. With its intricate production process, smoky notes, and distinct flavours, mezcal aligns well with this shift. It has become a symbol of refined taste and has gained a reputation as a premium beverage choice, attracting discerning consumers looking for a more elevated drinking experience.” The burgeoning cocktail culture has contributed to mezcal’s ascent into the luxury beverage market, states the report. This is why mixologists and bartenders have embraced mezcal as a versatile and premium ingredient for unique cocktail innovations.
A report titled India Tequila and Mezcal (Spirits) Market Size, Growth, and Forecast Analytics to 2025, published on March 21, 2022, tequila and mezcal market in India registered a positive CAGR of 3.57% during the period 2015 to 2020 with a sales of ₹2,622.99 million in 2020.
The 2020-2030 forecast report divides the mezcal market into 5 regions: North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, South and Central America, and the Middle East and Africa. While North America dominated the global mezcal market where the regional market accounted for US $612.20 million in 2022, Europe was second in line, holding more than 29% share of the global market. Asia Pacific is expected to register a considerable CAGR of over 7% during 2022-2030. “Mezcal is gaining popularity among consumers in Asian countries such as China, India, Japan, and Australia. This consumer shift towards mezcal is mainly attributed to the rising health concerns.”
Just considering Mumbai, the city has multiple Mexican restaurants such as Pompa, Mezcalita, La Loca Maria, Lyla, Poco Loco, and many more. This also means a rise of tequila-based cocktails on their menu besides margaritas. This shift in the rise of Mexican cuisine and restaurants is also a factor in the rise of mezcal and tequila in India.
It seems safe to say that the wave of the homegrown gin brand seems to have reached its end. We still have countless homegrown spirits and they are doing phenomenal in the market. However, the only name when talking about Indian homegrown agave spirits has to be Rakshay Dhariwal’s Pistola. Maya Pistola Agavepura is a 100% aged agave spirit made from wild agave Americana that grows in India’s Deccan Plateau. The Deccan highlands with its rich, arid, red-black volcanic soil are suitable for the blue-green agave Americana to thrive.
Pistola has five variants such as Joven, Rosa, Reposado, Añejo, and Extra Añejo. The tasting notes for Joven comprise citrus fruit, cooked agave, peppermint, green peppercorn, coriander, and honey. Rosa has hints of vanilla bean, plum, black cherries, blackberries, strawberry jam, and clove. The Reposado comprises caramel, butterscotch, oak, vanilla, cooked agave, orange marmalade, and cacao. Añejo has tasting notes of oak, cacao, dried figs, roasted almonds, dark chocolate, and a hint of smoke. The Extra Añejo has notes of spiced caramel, dark chocolate, honey, candied cherries, toffee, nuts, and smoke.
“Actually,” starts Dhariwal, a restauranter and co-founder of Pistola, “in 2020 to 2021, the US saw a 600% increase is mezcal sales. The smokiness, the traditional method of making it is extremely sexy and customers are now being exposed to so much information through the internet and different sources that it is great to see artisans at work making great liquid and mezcal is one such liquid,” he concludes.