Earlier in January, when we met the veteran chef and restaurateur Rahul Akerkar at his newly opened restaurant Ode, we asked him about his future plans. He mentioned a new restaurant opening in the middle of the year and we probed further but didn’t get anything. Cut to September, when we went to the preview of Waarsa, helmed by Chef Rahul Akerkar and Chef Mukhtar Qureshi. The newly opened restaurant in the National Centre for Performing Arts at Nariman Point in Mumbai is almost like a reunion for the two. The duo came together after 14 years to work on a new restaurant after Neel–Tote on the Turf at Mahalaxmi Racecourse.
There were multiple reasons for our excitement for Waarsa. Besides it being situated inside the NCPA, it is also a spot championing Awadhi cuisine in South Mumbai. The launch of Waarsa also coincided with Bay 21, a banquet space adjacent to the restaurant where we enjoyed a mehfil with our cocktails before walking next door to the Awadhi-cuisine restaurant.
Waarsa means inheritance and sticking to the meaning, it attempts to narrate the story of Awadh and its cooks, the flavours, aromas, and techniques that have been passed down through generations. “We’ve crafted every detail of Waarsa to reflect the essence of Awadh in a way that is both understated and elegant,” says Chef Akerkar, who is also the Culinary Director at Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH). “To create this, we immersed ourselves in the diverse culinary landscapes of Lucknow, Kolkata, and beyond, deeply engaging with the history and nuances of this remarkable cuisine,” he adds.
The 56-seater restaurant was designed by the esteemed restoration architect Abha Narain Lambah. At Waarsa, Lambah has managed to strike a beautiful balance between the old and the new. Known for her work on UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Lambah has infused the architectural language of Awadh while introducing contemporary design touches for Waarsa. The walls have a washed-out salmon hue inspired by surkhi – a material traditionally used in historic buildings and the ceilings have intricate designs. The salmon hue gives the space a warm, and comforting ambiance.
We started our night with the Court Jester – a zingy mix of gin, pickled Bhavnagri chilli, jasmine, lime, basil, and mint. While it didn’t have the spice kick we anticipated, the drink managed to have a slight aftertaste of jasmine and overall, was a pleasant cocktail. The other cocktails, all had a hint of Indian flavours and ingredients. Think paan-infused Campari, saffron, mango pickle, and masala chai syrup in your drink.
The cocktails draw inspiration from the rich heritage of Awadhi cuisine, known for its delicate balance of flavours and aromas. “Our cocktails do not shout,” states Chef Akerkar. “We use ingredients that intrigue the senses without overwhelming them,” he adds. The cocktails aim to evoke a sense of nostalgia while offering a fresh twist for today.
It is assumed that Awadhi cuisine is predominantly non-vegetarian but what caught our attention at Waarsa was the almost 50 percent vegetarian options. “As Qureshi, we don’t touch vegetarian food,” jokes Chef Qureshi who hails from the legendary Qureshi family and is the nephew of the celebrated late chef Imtiaz Qureshi. He shares that it was Chef Akerkar who wanted to keep a 50 percent vegetarian menu. “I also wanted that because, as children, we were taught to respect the guests. When they come to your door, you don’t know what they will eat but you must feed them.”
Chef Qureshi states that he has roots in both Mumbai and Lucknow. “My mother is from Mumbai and my father is from Lucknow.” He came to Mumbai in 1983 and started work as a trainee at Copper Chimney. “[During my time in Mumbai and back home], I have realised that home-cooked food is much better,” he states. Chef Akerkar also states during the preview night that this is what they are trying to do with Waarsa. “Khansamas cooked rich, nut-heavy, oil, fat, and ghee-driven food for nawabs but at the end of the day, they went home to eat. There is a huge part of this cuisine that is home cooked which is not really well known,” he says. They have worked with simple vegetables such as lauki (bottle gourd), tendli (ivy gourd), parwal (pointed gourd), bhindi (okra/lady finger), and stuff one would not normally see on a restaurant menu. “When I first talked to him [Chef Qureshi] about doing such a thing he said ‘ isme kuch nai hai [there’s nothing in this]’, and I said ‘isme swaad hai [this has taste]’,” he laughs.
We are not a fan of sweet potatoes but after having one piece of the Shakarkand Tikka (₹545), we were sold that this root vegetable can be tasty as well. With the right amount of smokiness after being roasted on a sigdi, to a well-seasoned marinade made out of Peshawari spices, we went in for a second helping! However, in small plates, the Kamal-Jhad Shammi (₹585) stole the show for us. This melt-in-the-mouth lotus stem patty was served atop a mini roomali roti of sorts and a lotus stem crisp on top.
Our meal was a set menu. We started with a Chilgoza Shorba (₹450) which was served with a mini garlic naan. This creamy soup was made out of pine nuts and had a handful of pieces of this expensive nut in it as well. But the soup was also made of carrots, cauliflower stalks, onion, and other spices such as javitri (mace), cardamom, yellow chilli, saffron, and kevda (screw pine).
Our main course included Haq Lasooni Chaman which was an earthy yellow gravy with chunks of tender paneer lal palak and the gravy was youghurt-based. It resembled a more earthy palak paneer but it wasn’t as rich and creamier and light on the palate and stomach. During our meal, we realised what Chef Qureshi meant when he said that he wanted to make the menu light. The Kabul ki Daal (₹450) was a prime example of how a black dal can be light but spot on in terms of flavour. This 14-hour slow-cooked dal has 70% less cream and butter. “This was a challenge because dal makhani cannot be made without butter and cream,” states Chef Qureshi. He replaced the usual yellow butter with the traditional white butter he grew up eating to make it more light and flavourful. The Kashmiri Gucchi Nadir Yakhni (₹1250) was a creamy, white gravy that seemed like an ode to Kashmir. This yakhni broth has morel Kashmiri Gucchi mushroom, green peas, lotus root, and a white onion yoghurt gravy. This one also doesn’t have any cream and Chef Qureshi shares that he has used white chilli from Srinagar.
We paired all of this with Bakhumaas (₹150) – a bread that was on the menu at Neel as well. “It is an Afghanistan word where you cover the dough for four hours in muslin cloth. Bakhu means sour and is meant to be eaten mostly with nihari and salan,” explains Chef Qureshi. The Tarkari Dum Biryani (₹685) was fragrant and had a strong taste of saffron, indicating its richness.
We were a little bummed that we did not get to try the dishes that included these simple vegetables both chefs kept talking about. Upon request, Chef Qureshi got us a small bowl of Bhindi Kali Mirch (₹575) to try. While we expected to be wowed, it turned out to be a little underwhelming.
We ended our meal with Parde Mein Shahi Khubani (₹400) a baked apricot halwa and it didn’t suit our palate because we are not fans of apricot. However, we wished the Angoori Rabdi (₹350) was a larger serving because the rabdi had the right amount of sweetness and we gobbled it up immediately!
